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These are likely Jim Black's notations on this page. Again, really important job to do; especially, if you don't know when/if it was done previously. Using today's higher quality grease products of your choice will likely extend the recommended service interval considerably. How much longer... do your research. | Thanks again to Dan Karnath for guiding me through this job and sending me these pics of his puller and snap-ring pliers. I've also included pics of the puller and pliers I bought and used. I couldn't find the 2-jaw puller like Dan used and wished I could have as the 3-jaw one I used was a bitch... but it worked in the end. These are the tools you need to do this job along with a couple of picks. Note: the split rings you'll be dealing with are large and high tension. The cheap lock ring pliers I bought would barely grab and hold both eye's. F'ing thing kept letting go, sending the ring flying off into the dirt. Do yourself a favour and take some vice-grips and carefully gently bend them both inwards towards each other - just a little. This will actually help them grip the rings better as you apply more tension on them. | Dan's 2-jaw puller. I couldn't find one so made do with the 3-jaw unit. | Note: Now that I've used the 3-jaw puller to do this, I discovered that if I ground down the 'hook' end on a grinder (dunking it often in water) to make a more slender/narrower hook - it was way easier to get it in between the shaft and the metal seal housing. |
2-1/8" socket. I could only find local with a 1" drive so I reduced it down to 1/2" for my killer impact driver which I decided to use. NOTE: you will have to grind down the forward end of the socket to fit it down over the hex-nut after you wrestle out the cotter pin. You can see the radius I ground off of it on my 3/4" bench grinder. Have a cup of cold water handy and 'dunk' it often to keep it cool and tempered. Took about 10 mins to shape it. | 'BIG-RED!'...love this tool but it makes so much torque it can not only bust shit, it can tear your arm off. Fortunately it has 4-torque settings and I learned the hard way to start low and work my way up if needed. | My impactor barely fit over the air-spring arms so I didn't need to take them off; regardless, they come off in minutes. NOTE: If you elect to do this job with the wheels off the coach, the drive-axle assembly will 'freewheel' as you try to turn it. I used a wide-jaw set of Vicegrips to lock & hold it to get the 2-1/8" nut off as can see clamped in place here. It wasn't great but with some messing around it worked. UPDATE: While trying to do the other side I was unable to get my wide-jaw vicegrips to hold fast while I used the impactor to screw down the big-nut. Drove me nuts. Gotta' figure a better way. | |
Getting ahead of myself here. FIRST ORDER OF THE DAY IS to unbolt the 4-bolts holding the propeller shaft to the drive axle yoke. Then hang/strap it up out of the way as you can see I did just above the top of the brake assembly. | Then get the nut off... As I have the wheels off the shaft spins freely when you try to take the yoke-nut off. I used a wide-jaw vicegrips to hold it and it worked on the first side I did. BE CAREFUL OF THE BRAKE-LINES! | ...then the washer... NOTE: SEE THE COTTER PIN HOLE? (see next pic also) WHEN YOU REINSTALL THE YOKE - BE SURE THE COTTER PIN HOLE LINES-UP CORRECTLY WITH THE 'VALLEY' OF THE YOKE OR YOU WON'T GET THE COTTER PIN BACK IN! Don't ask how I discovered this. UPDATE: There a actually TWO cotter pin holes perpendicular to each other through the end of the shaft. | ...then the yoke should slide off... |
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