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Throttle Control Swap | ||
Author: underthehood (Show all albums) Out with the hydraulic pedal, in with mechanical. |
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Several people have or have had this abomination. When I first picked up #862 the pedal was almost entirely seized and wouldn't return to idle. Once that was fixed idle would change depending on temperature. Then the hydraulic actuator at the pedal developed a leak. No rebuild kits available. If you have one of these and want to change it out, this is what I did. | None of my original throttle linkage, bell crank, mounts or cable remained. A Felsted Mechanical foot pedal was the solution. They are around $300 from dealers but I found military surplus on ebay for around $75. May still be available through this link. https://picclick.com/Military-Truck-Felsted-Mechanical-Accelerator-Pedal-320435967322.html | Wish this was clearer, but basically it says I purchased a 310" 3-series Push-Pull cable for 2" of travel with 10-32 rods at both ends. A few other clamps and a terminal eye to finish out the linkage. Length of cable might vary from one coach to another. | Remove old pedal, carpet, debris and rust. Determine your pedal's new location and mark for cutting. | ||
There is a bundle of wires and a shift cable below this area so be sure and locate those items from underneath so as not to cut into them. There is also a second layer of metal that had to be relieved so there was ample room for the pedal mechanicals' full range of motion. | Test fit and check underneath that the pedal will not hit on anything, rub on anything or bind up in anyway. | Hook up your linkages. | Clamp the cable. Test, test, test. | ||
(1 Comments) After wire brushing the rust and giving it a good coat of encapsulator, I laid down some coin rubber flooring for a finished look. | |||||
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