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Fan spacer part #3910128 (Mottrol). You'll need one of these to mount the ACS fan, otherwise it don't have enough clearance behind it. The prices on line vary wildly on these so watch out. I got mine for around $30.00. | One of these babies will raise the fan hub about 4" on the front of the engine and bring it over the centerline of the crank. (Cummins Fan Support 6bt- 3913433/5263160). It will necessitate a slightly different routing of the fan belt, adding a new fan/pulley mount for the ACS fan and a 1" spacer to kick the new fan out yet another inch so it clears the front of the engine. See following pics. | Raising the fan on a 6-BT will require replacing the stock Ram truck fan-support with yet another option available for the Cummins. These engines were used for so many applications that this would not prove much trouble to deal with. This stock unit is about 2" off center to the right of the crank centerline and quite low on the front of the engine. | Here's where Terry discovers exactly how little room there actually is to stuff a 12-valve with an overdrive in the back of one of these things; moreover, it's also where I discover that the fan will have to be raised up in order to raise the radiator upwards so it's not getting shellacked by rocks. |
New fan arrived. Thanks to Len for referring me to Superior Injection and Turbo in Detroit to get this fan and tons of sage advice from their sales/tech, Larry Brudzynski. It's an American Cooling Systems 24" - 7 blade pusher fan. (part #ACS828100-24). You can find this fan and all the specs on it on the ACS website. After a thorough discussion on my application with Larry, he advised that this fan would more than meet my needs without a fan clutch - period. Running full time with 7-blades (vs. 9-blades) at 2000 rpm the fan will draw less than 7-hp from the engine and still move 13,000/cfm's of air. As well, at idle and slower speeds the 7-blades will move slightly less volume and should still allow the 12-valve to reach satisfactory operating temps. Can't say enough good things about dealing with Larry. He knows his shit. | Coat of good rust paint should add a few years of service to it. Ready for diesel! | If you haven't done this be forewarned: dropping these tanks and getting them back in, especially by oneself without help, is a BITCH. With the standard 17" wheels you'll need to jack up the coach at least an additional 8" off the ground to get it out. Blocking and a good floor jack are very helpful. Here's the tank set up (fuel sender removed) after an interior hot-water de-greaser pressure wash. Blew it out with compressed air then let it sit overnight with a small light bulb on to burn off any residual moisture. | Time to tackle the fuel tank. Been putting it off long enough. Disconnect hoses & two wires. |
This is a Ford Taurus fan that will push air downward through the cooler. It's situated close enough to the drivers side engine house vent grill that it should draw enough cooler air from it. If not, I'll look at other means to direct cooler air at it. The seller of the fan had butchered it to make it work in a different application. I decided to beef it up with a couple of aluminum struts that counter-support the huge torque of this fan perfectly. It will run full-time with key-on voltage. | A couple years ago I scored 2 - 4x8' sheets of this expanded aluminum, not really having an immediate purpose for it. Now a small hunk will shield my cooler from road-rocks. | ||
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