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Heater grid rubber-bulb type momentary switch. A PO had installed a rocker switch here that I didn't use so managed to do it without adding another hole to something. | Intake air-heater grid solenoids in. There are 2 of them and they draw 100-amps or so each for those freezing morning starts. | Cold-side in with suspenders. | Hot-side plumbing in with room for the batteries underneath. |
Intercooler plumbing: one note on the hot-side pipe coming out of the turbo. I used the original Cummins cast elbow to get the pipe headed rearward to the intercooler inlet but discovered it ran smack into the wastegate rubber air line. I resolved that by turning the vacuum cylinder 180 deg to get the hose turned out of the way to this position. Seems to do the trick. | Shift cable: got lucky again with the OEM FMC trans shifter cable as it appears it will work as it was. Will know more once it's back on the ground to test it out. I simply bolted a short pc of angle iron to the trans to mount the cable U-bolt to. This pic is looking upwards at the cable connection. | Used a pc of aluminum 1/4" x 3/4" bar then bent each end and drilled a hole for a bolt in each end. Attached on end on the fuel shut off solenoid bracket and the other on the throttle cable mount bracket. Note: no TPS sensor or PCM (computer) in play here. Gears 1 thru 3 are hydraulically controlled, actuated by the TV cable you see next to the throttle cable, while the overdrive and converter lock up are controlled by simple toggle switches in the cockpit. | Throttle cable re & re: This proved to be the most difficult part of the cable swap job. Getting under the throttle pedal isn't an easy fix to get at the cable end. Same as the original cable I found a boat push-pull cable to do the job. Needed a longer one to reach the Cummins throttle lever position. Cost about $100/CAD to land one of these here: Teleflex SeaStar XTREME CCX63327 (27 Feet in Length). Attaching to the engine took some messing around but I finally figured out a simple solution. |
Battery tray relocate. Gets some more weight towards the center of the coach and forward. This tray will hold an 8D, or, most any 2 or 3 regular crankers. | Forgot to include this with the Pacbrake pics. Shows basic wiring configuration to set up a Pacbrake without the PCM in play. The kit has a simple on/off switch on the dash, a throttle switch which activates the brake in the throttle-off position, along with the compressor, tank, air solenoid, pressure switch and a couple of relays. Even I could figure out how to do this, so anyone could. | Viola! | |
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