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Final weld done and ready for paint. I designed this to bolt directly to the port-side engine mount plate. The 'triangle' formed with the support gusset and the horizontal t-brace to control horizontal movement make it rock solid. Again, 3 - pics previous shows it installed. | Port-side rad support tacked together in place now ready for final weld. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle iron with a 1" x 1" x 1/8" t-bar cross brace back to chassis frame. | Tip attached with 3 heavy sheet metal screws. Boom-done! | Grabbed 2-universal hangers and modified them to work. This rearmost one is hung from the drivers side rad support I designed. The one ahead of the muffler hangs from the battery tray. |
Three coats of VHT and she's GTG. | Decided to weld up my own exhaust tip. Cut @ 30-deg then held by my trusty magnets. | A generous coating of VHT (2000-deg) exhaust/rust paint on all the welds and she's good to go in. | Final welding of the exhaust which, as usual, required some grinding to clean it up. But I am slowly getting better at it. The 4" flange adapter that gets it onto the HX-35 came from Pacbrake. Then there's a 45'-deg and a 90'-deg aluminized steel elbow(s) that both needed to be cut down to accommodate the tight radius to make that sharp turn out the ass end. Finished with a short run of 4" aluminized pipe to the Magnaflow muffler. |
A small nut/bolt/lock wsher replaces the old brass rivet that failed. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the final fix with the two nut/bolts holding the two halves of the housing together. All I can say is don't over-torque the bolts/screws you use to do this as the housing is plastic. So far the gauge is working again. Will know more later. | Here you can see the interior of the windings housing. You can see the four remnants of the plastic attachment tabs which I simply cut with a sharp blade to detach the plastic housing from the cover lid. Note the spring on the float rod. I took that off and gently stretched it slightly to increase contact pressure on the windings. Move the float rod through its range of motion. I decided I'd bolt the plastic housing back together with the metal cover plate with small #6 SS nuts/bolts/wshers. I did it with 2 of them. If you try to fix yours, you need to move the float rod to establish exactly where you can safely drill and insert bolts through the assembly without affecting float-rod travel. | This little pecker is the culprit. It used to live inside the housing providing a connection between the windings and the sender wire upwards to the top tank connection. I tried drilling it out with the idea of using a very small nut/bolt/washer thing to reattach it. Didn't work. | This close-up shows the gist of the issue. |
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