| Search | Statistics | User Listing | Member Roster | Coach DB | Forums | Albums |
| Home -> FMC Owner's Forum -> Albums -> View Album |
|
| You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register ) |
The 'before' moment. Looks good but sure wouldn't want to sit there for more than a couple of miles. | (1 Comments) Photo shows the proximity of the two levers that were previously colliding. The upper one goes up to connect to the carb; while the lower one is the gear shift lever controlled from the drivers seat. Somehow in the past the trans throttle pressure lever got pushed downward just enough that the throttle rod retainer clip was hitting the lever-end of the shifter cable assembly square-on the end, limiting the the throttle lever AND the throttle opening itself as much as 30%. | (1 Comments) | |
Presto! The friction on the pipes is suffice that they are held at whatever height you set them at. I may add some sort of grommet/trim pcs to hide my knife work later. | You can see the first hole here was an abortion. At that juncture I was still bent on using the plastic inserts which would have required a 5/8" hole. After struggling with batting wrapping around the drill bit repeatedly - drives you freaking nuts - I abandoned the idea and just went for two holes about 3/8" dia. After you cut through it all with your knife and push (finger) the batting away from the drill path, I stuck a 1/2" socket into the hole to shield the bit from tangling up in the batting. With some perseverance, it worked and the last 3 holes were more respectable. | Pulled a full length pc of tape along the center of the top of the seat. This is important as you need to hit the center of what I figure is a strip of mild strap iron about 1 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick on top of a 2"x4" standing on edge. Once I cut (super sharp razor knife) through the fabric (make about a 1" 'X'), the batting then the foam on top of the steel, I center-punched the steel to keep the drill lined-up. | This is the objective. Had the wife sit where she was comfortable then marked center of her back with the masking tape. |
(1 Comments) New countertop and table. | (1 Comments) I centered the hole @ 1 1/4" off the window frame. The right side of the square alum-frame tube is at approx 1 7/8" off the window frame; so, you could go about 1 1/2" off the window. I sat my wife in the seat before I chose the elevation for the anchor. This is approx 25" - 26" above the top of the seat cushion. Got another bloody hole to fill now... | (1 Comments) I tried different wrenches/sockets etc. I found this worked best. The idea is to be sure the screw and nut are hand-tight all the way into the riv-nut before you start. With this method I was able to simultaneously hold the works tight against the wall while holding the cap screw stationary with one wrench as you move the other to tighten the nut down which causes the riv-nut to collapse & expand in the hole. | In the hole ready for the wrenches. Ignore the extra hole to the right. I could find no cabin frame reference for targeting the hole, so this was the first 'exploratory' venture. Turned out it was only inner skin thickness. I wanted frame structure. Consider this as #846 'taking one for the team'. Found the square tube frame an inch to the left. See measurements following. |
 | Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software © 2002-2024 PD9 Software | (Delete all cookies set by this site) |