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Here you can see them with only 20 psi in each one, which raises the coach nearly 1-inch in the rear. You can also see there's '0' deflection from the load on the one on the left. These air-springs, at 100-psi max inflation, are rather overkill for this application, but I have no regrets. I've yet to do any front-end work on #846 and already notice a substantial improvement in drivability of the coach. I've yet to take coach over the weigh scale to test my weight-transfer theory since I've installed these, but will post the results (whether they actually do or can transfer any load from the rear wheels to the front) when I do so. | INTERCOOLER- AIR VS WATER? IMHO water/air intercooling is far and away the preferred application for these coaches. As you can see by the first few pics I initially chose to follow Len's lead from his D-Max build with one, I thought, notable change: I would put my electric fan on top of the cooler 'pushing' air downwards vs sucking road dust (pulling) upwards into the engine house. We always have and will continue do much of our camping in the backcounty on dusty, dirty forest service roads. The guy I bought the fan from had cut away a portion of the radial support arm from the fan. It was still fairly solid but I elected to beef it up some with the addition of the two aluminum braces/struts you can see in the pic. It doesn't 'twist' on start up any more. Trying to reconcile this air/water setup in the rear corner of the coach - under the genset - set in motion a long & onerous chain of events that I'm quite ashamed to share with anyone; however, I will do so regardless :-o First pic: this is Ford Taurus electric fan. They are legendary for the flow volumes they achieved and good used ones are widely available and very affordable. They also used them on certain (80's?) Lincoln's & similar ones on Volvo's, too. You'll be plumbing in a 60-amp fuse (or so) to run one of these puppies as they surge real high on start up. | I snagged this Dodge Ram 2010'- 6.7L charge-air cooler (CAC) for this job. Barely - read BARELY - fit. | Had a couple of sheets of expanded aluminum on hand so used a hunk to keep the rocks off the cooler fins. Yes, that's an ASME LP hose that ran (for a while) my Yammy EF6000 that replaced the old ONAN. |
This, less the additional nearly 20-ft of 3" air piping required to get from the turbo to the cooler then from the cooler upwards then across the roof of the engine house to air intake horn, is what I ended up with. I had to lower the original Onan mounts to make clearance for the Yammy that would live above it. Then last summer, on our inaugural 'First Trip' post-swap (yeah-yeah... the one where I got 'towed' home behind a Kenworth) that: PORTABLE GENERATORS ARE NOT SUITABLE FOR FIXED INSTALLS IN THE CRAMPED CONFINES OF AN RV ENGINE HOUSE! It simply got too hot while running in there and I shut it down after 10 mins, and resolved to rip it out and find another solution... which led to my next faux pas. I sold the Yammy and bought me a low-hour (300-ish) Honda air-cooled EV4000 with a remote start kit and muffler that could be mounted in an enclosed compartment with both the engine exhaust pipe and fan forced coolant air exiting THE BOTTOM OF THE ENCLOSURE. This is important! | Got me a FROZENBOOST WATER TO AIR INTERCOOLER. FROM THEIR WEBSITE - FROZENBOOST.COM Water to Air Intercooler, 12.5"x12.25"x4.5", Thru I/O (Type 10) This impressive Liquid/Air intercooler is better than any FMIC. 100% Lightweight aluminum, No Epoxy Used In Core Fin pitch is 21 fins/inch - 12.5 air side and 8.5 water side. Recommended for up to 700 CFM / 600 HP Pressure Drop: Less than 0.1 PSI. This is not a typo! Liquid/Air Intercoolers have incredibly low pressure drop. Air Inlet/Outlet: 3.0" Water Inlet/Outlet: 1/2" NPT Core Size: 10"x4.5"x4.5" (Endtanks add to length) Maximum water/air pressure: 70 PSI The inlet and outlet on this intercooler go directly through the intercooler; preventing the air from changing direction can result in better airflow. Note: The water inlet and outlet on most water/air intercoolers are BPT threads. BPT fittings are difficult to find in the United States, so ours all come with NPT threads. | The mounting bosses proved invaluable on this puppy AND I was able to reduce the total piping length by six or eight feet-ish. More importantly, the cold air outlet is situated within inches of the intake horn of the 12-valve. Obvious benefits here, too. | Before with the Yammy & Dodge cooler. |
Here you can see the pipe exits the turbo then quickly turns upwards and over to the intake side of the engine. | Here you can see the pipe coming across to the cooler. In the upper left corner you can also catch a glimpse of the black 'coolant reservoir' I came up with. It resembles a 4" x 4" x 2" ABS sanitary TEE, because it is. It takes coolant from the heat exchanger mounted on the exterior engine house door then gravity feeds it downward into the intercooler below it. From the cooler it drops down into the 500 gph 'bait tank' pump that lives down near the brake booster. Note how close the cold-air outlet of the cooler is to the intake horn. | I cut up some 1/8" plate to mount the left side of the cooler on while the right side simply bolted into the main frame rail. It was solid then but I also elected to put a small (adjustable tension) pipe strap stay on the top as well. | Overhead view of the live-bait-well pump. I also tee-ed off the outlet hose with a drain-cock fitting to easily drain the (approx 2-qts) from the system if needed. |
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