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Finally I took a 9/16" drill and hollowed out the interior of the large brass fitting so that the probe would be adequately exposed to coolant around it. | Got the exhaust roughed out and tacked together today. Would have finished it but ran out of gas for the mig. | Had to make the turn off the exhaust brake with 45/deg and 90/deg aluminized steel elbows, which had to be cut down to work; however, they barely made the turn and only after I ran the 4" pipe completely through the hoop and then put the 7" Magnaflow on immediately after it. I wanted the muffler inside the hoop but no go, for now. | Here you can better see how close the bottom of the 4" pipe is to the bottom of the hoop. There's a 3/4" space under it, that's all. Still needs the hangers put in place to keep it put. |
Here you can see better how close the hot-side intercooler pipe comes to the exhaust pipe. The cast elbow off the turbo was designed to run forward to the rad area on the Ram Cummins trucks, whereas in this application it needed to be turned about 180/deg the opposite direction, where things got crowded. But it should work. | Coolant temp sensor as recommended by VDO to work with the OEM gauges.(Part #323-057). 1/8 - 27 NPT to 300'F. As seen in the previous pics, an adapter can be made from the 12 valves' 3/4" NPT OEM sender with some simple machining. I did it with a drill press, a 1/8"-27 NPT tap and a couple of drill bits. Haven't got the rad in yet so will comment if it actually works when I finally get to run it up to temp. | Oil pressure sender #VDO-150AP. Recommended by VDO tech to work with the OEM gauge. | 10 - 180 ohms (important). Also 1/8"-27 NPT. Small spade to dash idiot light, large spade to gauge 'S' terminal. Also have the option for ring terminal connection. |
Fuel level sender & float assembly. Thought I'd throw this in as I forgot to earlier with the tank re & re thing. My fuel gauge was always erratic with the needle bouncing around wildly, providing only occasional glimpses of what was actually going on in there. | This close-up shows the gist of the issue. | This little pecker is the culprit. It used to live inside the housing providing a connection between the windings and the sender wire upwards to the top tank connection. I tried drilling it out with the idea of using a very small nut/bolt/washer thing to reattach it. Didn't work. | Here you can see the interior of the windings housing. You can see the four remnants of the plastic attachment tabs which I simply cut with a sharp blade to detach the plastic housing from the cover lid. Note the spring on the float rod. I took that off and gently stretched it slightly to increase contact pressure on the windings. Move the float rod through its range of motion. I decided I'd bolt the plastic housing back together with the metal cover plate with small #6 SS nuts/bolts/wshers. I did it with 2 of them. If you try to fix yours, you need to move the float rod to establish exactly where you can safely drill and insert bolts through the assembly without affecting float-rod travel. |
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