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LISLE - 34550 BEARING PACKER! GET ONE OF THESE AND DON'T BE STUPID LIKE ME AND THROW AWAY THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU USE IT - THE WRONG WAY! THEY WORK LIKE A HOT-DAMN! (SEE YOUTUBE VIDEOS) NOTE: THESE DON'T WORK WITH THE LARGER SPINDLE BEARINGS AS THE TUB IS ABOUT 1/8" TOO SMALL. WTF? | FOOTNOTE: This is the SKF crossover bearing-cup set you can use vs the Timken part listed in the FMC manual. Set= 1-conical bearing & 1-cup. Note: After I'd reassembled both my axles 'reusing' the (freshly greased) old bearing/cup sets I discovered the pass-side shaft had about 40-50 thou end-play in the shaft. After you unhook the propeller-shaft from the drive-yoke on the end of the shaft, you can easily measure your end-play by popping off the grease cap on the outer drive flange (exposing the end of the drive shaft) then use a Vernier (the thin pointy depth measuring shaft) and then take measurements after pulling the shaft inwards and then pushed outwards and compare the measurement. Talked to a Timken rep and the consensus was that mine was excessive. Bought a couple of new SKF sets (above) as changing out the bearings seemed the only thing left to do to fix it. I was kind of freaking actually until I put a Vernier on the old bearings and discovered the new SKF's were roughly 20-thou wider than the old ones. So I wondered then if the 2 x 20-thou (= 40 thou) extra width of these new ones was the solution to my shaft issue? Reinstalled the new ones and WHAM-O... no end-play in the shaft! My hunch is, just a hunch, this was the first time the inner shaft bearings were done on my coach after 85,000 miles and it may have resulted in accelerated wear, as they're supposed to be done every 25,000 miles. Wheels are going back on #846 today! | One side done. Oil seal was a bitch, almost buggered it. Note: Although I will get through this with the coach up on jack stands, do yourself a favour and do this job like Dan advised - leave the wheels on and drive the coach up on ramps! I'm really struggling to hold the yoke still while I use my impactor to get the yoke nut on/off. An impactor is the way to go on this job if you have one as there's very little room under there to swing wrenches. | If you need bearings & cups be sure to replace both as a set. Cups: Timken Part #LM603011 Conical bearings: Timken Part# LM603049. SKF Bearing & Cup set (2-pcs) part # BR37 Note: Before reassembly, refer to aforementioned FMC parts/service manual (Group 17) for instructions. I discovered with further reading (I think Dan mentioned it, too) that the cups do not rotate, only the bearings, so I assume that implies they need to be reinstalled without grease and only the bearings get greased. |
Finally, here you can see the order of disassembly: cotter-pin; outer castle nut; heavy washer; yoke assembly(not shown); CR-24911 seal; inner bearing & cup; spacer; snap-rings(2); inner bearing & cup. ASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER - GOOD LUCK! | My bearing was stuck on the shaft so I used a hard plastic mallet to carefully tap around the bearing to loosen it for cleaning and re-greasing. | Get at least 2 of these radial shaft oil seals (#CR-24911/SKF-24911) before you start. I'd recommend having a spare as well in case you bugger one up. I found these are not so simple to put in. It's easy to get them tilted out of whack. I used a stub of 3" OD alum intercooler pipe with a small block of wood on top of it to get it started then finished it up by carefully tapping it all around with a 12" chunk of 1"x3/4" oak. | This is the entire assembly you pull out reassembled before cleaning. |
After the 2nd snap-ring is out then this last bearing cup comes out and the entire axle with the last bearing still on it can be pulled out, assuming you've already removed the outer drive-flanges (8 bolts) off the other end of the axles. | Better pic of the 2nd snap-ring. NOTE: THESE TWO SNAP-RINGS ARE WHAT HOLDS YOUR DRIVE AXLE'S IN PLACE. BEFORE REASSEMBLY: BE CERTAIN THE GROOVE THEY SIT IN IS PERFECTLY CLEAN BEFORE YOU PUT THEM BACK IN (WIPE OUT THEN BLOW WITH COMPRESSED AIR) - AND THEN BE CERTAIN THEY ARE FULLY SEATED TIGHT AGAINST EACH OTHER AND FULLY INTO THE GROOVE ALL AROUND. I USED A LONG FLAT SCREWDRIVER WITH A SOFT-BLOW HAMMER TO TAP-TAP ALL AROUND TO CONFIRM THEY ARE TIGHT AGAINST EACH OTHER. YOU MAY ALSO HEAR THE RING "SNAP" INTO PLACE WHEN YOU HAVE IT. | These are surprisingly strong lock springs so once you get a grip on them - squeeze hard and carefully work them out. | Sorry for the crappy pic here but now you pull the two snap-rings. Wipe away the old grease to expose them. |
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