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BRAKE PEDAL HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT. | ||
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums) I know there's lots of you out there who, like me, find the brake pedal height on your coach inordinately high. I my case I nearly kneed myself in the face each time I lifted the ole' right foot up onto the brake pedal; moreover, a dozen years ago or so when I had a buyer - with deep pockets and a buggered knee - out on a test drive in #509 - I lost the deal as he couldn't reach the pedal without a seriously painful jolt from his knee. As I've mostly ironed out the post Cummins swap kinks out of #846, I found time to address the brake pedal. This is what I did and so far after a trip to the lake and back, I'm extremely happy with the improvement in drivability and haven't detected any overly 'hot' brake drums with my IR gun yet. DISCLAIMER: If anyone reads this and decides to follow any or all of the methods I'm sharing or describing here - do so at your own peril. I take no responsibility nor will incur any liability henceforth. Feel free to email me with any questions, or, join the thread commentary in the OG Mechanical forum if you please. |
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Better 'head on' angle of the hole placement in the gusset for the 1/4-20 bolt. A round headed carriage bolt would also work here I think. Good luck! | Don't forget to adjust your brake-light switch afterwards and put a little Vaseline/grease on the pin contact plate while you're in there. | Not sure if the pedal stop (the funny looking bent finger shaped prong sticking out) was RVS's work or a PO. I suspect the former. The shim-nut on the pedal I installed contacts it firmly and it's important that it does not jam up pedal travel in any way. If it contacts it squarely, it shouldn't. | IIRC: I read a service bulletin from years ago where they mentioned something about carving off some of the lower dash where the brake pedal was contacting it in order to increase the up-travel of the pedal to alleviate any residual pedal pressure on the MC. Again - IIRC. Here you can see where I drilled a 1/4" hole through the little triangle shaped gusset on the pedal arm. I determined that the much shorter upper swing-arc distance only needed to be bridged by about 1/4" or so to keep the pedal almost 2" lower without putting ANY pressure on the MC rod. I messed with some extra washers for a bit to get it just right. I left about 1/2" of pedal travel before the MC-rod tip makes contact. | ||
After playing with the pedal - gently moving it up and down by hand - I discovered that I could lower the rod nearly 2" closer to the deck before the rod-end (pedal to master cyl) touched the MC-piston. WTF? I checked it then rechecked it and for the life of me I couldn't figure why it was set up this way. | Here you can see how crazy this situation really was. The top of the pedal sits at close to 10.5" off the deck. | ||||
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