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ADD FORWARD 38-US GAL. WATER TANK TO LATER COACH.
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)

IMHO: for it's attributes there are also a few shortcomings with these coaches; including, a rather modest potable water carrying capacity.

One way to remedy this on the later coaches - IF YOU ARE WILLING TO OR ALREADY HAVE DITCHED YOUR AUTO-A/C FROM YOUR COACH - is to rip out the fans & condenser's etc from the lower forward compartment to make room for another tank. Water is super-heavy, too, and the extra weight forward can even improve handling some. I'm posting this to show that it can be done - but I urge any who'd venture to go here to give it careful consideration before proceeding. The photo album will take it from here. Terry #846

NOTE: My tank has failed after little service. I wish anyone better luck than I had should they/you venture to do this work on your own. Perhaps a longer apprenticeship in plastic-welding may have proved fruitful. Terry #846


PLAN 'B'... the 'practical' compromise.

Okay, update on my failed forward tank-build. I found an outfit in Alberta, Canada, that does roto-molded tanks and they have a 32 US/gal (26.6 Imp) tank that will fit easily into the forward tank compartment, or, in the later coaches, into the A/C machinery compartment once you tear it all out.

This tank comes with (in my case) 4 - spin welded fittings ready to hook up.

It's only about 6 gals less than the OEM 38 gal jobby that came with these coaches.

The slightly smaller size also translates into more room for thicker insulation around the tank, which is useful for us 'Northern-dudes'.

I'll have it here next week and will update the thread.

Here's the kicker: They are shipping it to my door as described - 500 miles as the crow flies - for: $349.54 (CDN) all in!

Wish I'd gone this route from the get-go. Live... learn.

See: the RFW1003 - https://www.dmplastics.ca/products/rv-tanks.aspx

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First19 Photos - Page : [1] [2]


Finne'! "Get yer motor runnin'..."





Install done. The last part went better than the beginning. With the exception of not being able to use the fiberglass housing top-cover (because I made the tank 1/2" too tall) it all went the way I wanted. The tank is still insulated on top regardless. Here you can see the pathway to the round hole in the cross member for the water lines and the drain ball-valve etc. The bottom sheet metal original cover served well to hold the tank up. I added a 1"x1" cross bar as well for extra support.


Be certain to get all hoses & wiring up and out of the way of both the tank and the steering rack!

You'll have some cutting and grinding to do to get this prepped for the tank.

As part of the clearing out of the old A/C components from the cavity where the new tank will go, you also need to make a passage for the new water lines to get to the tank. I found this conspicuous looking sheet metal plate tacked on the main cross-member and discovered that sure enough - this is the passage that was used on the early coaches to get water to & from the lower forward tank. It's a bitch to reach and get opened up so jack the coach high to make it some easier.

Here it is in the shroud with sheet foam around it ready to go in. I cut open the angled corner of the shroud and riveted in an SS angle piece to better fit the new square corner on my tank. I checked in advance to make sure all steering-rods/components would clear it safely.




Top finally on and tank full with a clear poly spout so I could watch it for a day or more to see if it went down. I did, barely, but there was no water on the ppr towels or table. Good to go. I was so DONE with welding this thing. Outside measurements, roughly: 27" x 32" x 10 1/2". NOTE: there is another 3/4" (spin-on) fitting on the bottom of the tank in addition to the two visible. Top= vent; Side= fill; Bottom= drain & pump feed.

First water test, first of MANY actually. Notice the paper towels under each corner. Proved a good way to quickly highlight any leaks if/when they happened. And oh... did they happen. I'm ashamed to say how many times I had to fill, drain, dry out, grind-off, weld again, refill then repeat this tank. So I won't, suffice to say I now know why folks buy the roto-molded tanks or get a pro to weld them up a new one.

The corner welds turned out to be the MOST challenging.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First19 Photos - Page : [1] [2]

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