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Elite Veteran
 
Location: Medford, OR | Carb is on the bench, hopefully look inside today!! |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Here's what I found with the TQ:
Everything looks great! Except for my float bowl adjustment from a couple years ago....I bent the "tang" that touches/closes the needle in order to set the correct 1" float height. Doing some homework today, a Thermoquads floats are adjusted by bending the float arm itself. I didn't know that. SO....now I need to figure out the correct position of the needle shut off metal tang, then adjust the float height. Reading info online hasn't quite answered this question completely...some say the float should almost touch the air horn body (in the closed position),then adjust the float...But when the float assembly is down to where it almost touches the body, it puts the needle/float tang at a crazy angle? It still shuts off fuel flow, but looks like its pushing the needle to the side vs straight in on it? Is this making any sense to anyone? Lol. Nobody really talks about "needle drop specs" to much. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Time to get a new set of floats. Unless they are brass I replace TQ floats every rebuild. Float drop is what the spec for full open is called. You don't want the floats to rest on the bottom of the bowl. Also too much drop may cause needle to bind as fuel level rises. I know the 1" float setting is not the spec but if you want a TQ to run without problems 1" is the best level I have found. Be sure nothing is stuck in the carb upside of the seats.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | They are plastic. I can order a set of brass for about 25.00.
I wonder if this could be the reason 850 was parked 20 years ago? Of course, I probably messed the floats up myself, but the TQ choke system was all froze up when I drove it home, I couldn't get full throttle at that time, so who knows....I often think about that...why was it parked. Hmm
This whole thing just p's me off. Two fuel systems = fail. Now mystery float issues = fail. Well, even if a new set of brass floats fixes it, I'm not even sure what "fuel system" I should run?? Electric, or mechanical?? Hell, I have both! I love wasting my time. Not sure about making Oakridge, with a 19 month old daughter running around, I get minimal FMC time, right now I still only have a really expensive tent, that won't push itself down the hwy.......#850 might make it to Craigslist?.....haha! Ok, done ranting.
Edited by dkarnath 2016-09-12 11:59 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | The choke and secondary air valve are somewhat intertwined. A (the right) choke problem can have adverse affects on secondary air valve opening. Even wrong vacuum port routing to the choke pull off affects secondary opening. I don't see this causing the present issue.
Just thinking... Is the metering rod piston/holding fixture free moving and spring loaded to top of carb? If the piston is seized down the rods will not rise to allow the fuel mixture to go rich causing starvation. Also be sure the rods are attached to the fixture and not dropped down. If they are not removed before the top is removed getting them back in right is no easy feat.
The small rubber seals in fuel bowl that seal secondary main wells to top of carb get missed and cause major flooding so watch for them.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | The metering rods/piston move freely up and down. I believe if that assembly was stuck/seized down, you wouldn't be able to get full throttle due to the step up linkage. I found this out on my first TQ that I tore apart! And yes, I also found out you have to remove the metering rods etc first before trying to take the air horn body off, vice versa. lol
I was wondering about the choke pull off. I know that it holds vacuum, but whether or not it drops off fast enough for the secondary air valve door to open, I don't know? Can't see it work back there!! The secondary door's spring feels good, no binding, snaps back nice to the closed position. I could actually adjust the closed door postition to be tighter, the spec is .040", I have probably .060". A lot of people set this .040" measurement to "0" I guess. I have no bog between the primary's and secondary's. To be honest I don't remember even feeling/hearing a difference between the two, other than my foot down on the floor...
I'm going to modify my floats and put it back together and see what happens. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I just ordered brass floats and a new needle and seat. One of the needles were sticking in the closed position fairly easily, had grooves. This "should" be my fix!! |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I put the new brass floats in and have smooth working needles.....BUT same issues. Pulls hard until 40 mph or so, then starts falling on its face. Brought her home and pulled the tank pick-up out, I thought maybe I'd see a pin hole or something up high, but no, looks to be in excellent condition. I think I need a new carburetor. I'm out of trouble shooting options as far as I'm concerned.... |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Be sure fuel pickup is not touching the tank floor if it is a straight tube. Did you remove the fuel inlet fitting on carb to check for a filter? Clamp some fuel line on line that attaches to carb and run electric pump with that hose in 5 gallon gas can and be sure flow is good and steady. Can't see it being a fatal carb problem. Pulling hard until 40 is the tough part I still think supply to carb or restriction in carb that has to be something between fuel supply fitting and needle and seats. Nothing there is hard to blow out. Hidden filter?? or big chunk of crud?? I have seen both. Good luck.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | FIXED!!!!!!! BILL you ass! You talked earlier about sucking air??? Today with help from the father in law, we tied in some clear tubing along with the fuel pressure gauge and taped it to the back window. I drove the rig while the other person watched the gauge from the back bedroom. Fuel pressure would drop to ZERO under hard acceleration, along with AIR BUBBLES running through the line!!! I bypassed the supply line from the tank, still had air bubbles, I then bypassed the fuel filter....BAM!! The fuel filter assembly was sucking air...needless to say, I'm not going to use that old filter. Took it for another drive and she ran flawlessly down the highway maintaining 6 psi with no air being introduced into the system. I will post pics of the funky gauge set up. Thanks Bill for giving me (more than one time) the correct fix on this situation. I wish I would have done this bypass of the fuel supply system earlier. I am a happy man.
Dan
#850 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yes we are planning on Oakridge!! |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Good-ass Billy they call him!
Way to go Dan.
Look forward to meeting you guys.
...if my tranny holds up.
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | After I parked 850 in the driveway.... Me and the father in law were celebrating with an ICE COLD beer, I looked at 850 and noticed the front tire was flat!!!! Another faulty tube gone boom. Hopefully my tires hold out Terry!! |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Find some Alcoa's or 19.5" steelie's.
Worth the expense if you plan to keep her... till your broke!
Ha-ha!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yeah thanks Terry....OR I pull the rest of my balding spot hair out!! Ha |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | dkarnath - 2016-09-18 6:49 PM Yes we are planning on Oakridge!!
Great! I knew you could do it! We will see you in Oakridge. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | "FIXED!!!!!!! BILL you ass! " Why does it always end that way? Back in my Chrysler dealer tech days, I stopped by one of the other tech's bay to find wires all over the place, new car torn half way apart trying to find out why the radio would not work. He had been at it for some time. I looked under the hood and plugged in the I.O.D. (ignition off draw) connecter and all was well with the world. Talk about pissed off. Hey not my fault, ask first next time. I.O.D connecter is to keep parasitic draw from running down the battery while new cars sit on the sales lot and should be plugged an at time of sale. Now it is more like a fuse that gets pushed the rest of the way in at sale day.
Great you found the leak! And you know your carb is in good shape with brass floats.
Yep now your on to the 19.5 wheel search.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yep, I have some new shiny parts....Maybe a coach will come up for sale cheap locally with a set of 19.5's....Another coach that's been sitting under a tree somewhere.....who knows. Problem is, IF I do find this cheap local coach, Katie will have a club in her hand ready to beat me over the head if I even TRY to bring it home....lol |
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Contributor
| Andy: I am new here but have had lots of vapor lock experience with a 440 in a Vogue. Did you ever solve the problem?
Bruce ON EDit: I se you solved the problem. Congrats!!!
Edited by Bruce 2017-02-09 6:50 PM
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To vapor lock, or not to, that is the question.
