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Regular
| Looking for an E Brake and yoke for an allison. I understand the AT545 parts should work. Let me know if by chance you might have the parts collecting dust and would like to get rid of them  .
Thanks, Hal |
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Expert
 
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | I had to change the output shaft and housing on my Allison 1000 and then all of the parking brake parts from my Allison 545 were a direct fit. |
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Regular
| Thanks Stephen, I have the tail housing and shaft on the way but am on the lookout for the E brake parts. I think (?) the MT643 had the same parts too. Kind of a wild reach to find the brake here but thought I'd try, who knows I might get lucky.
Hal |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Chevy/GMC Kodiak/Topkick C4500/C5500 with the Allison have the large parking brake on the tailhousing from the factory. This is the Kodiak set up : http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=127&p...
Edited by LCAC_Man 2021-10-19 7:38 PM
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Regular
| Yea Len, that would sure work but really tough to find for a decent price. You don't even want to price a new setup, it will exceed $1k. I'd go with a modified micro lock before spending that kind of money. The AT545's are supposed to fit and 'should' be more reasonable (Stephen used his old AT545 E Brake on his swap) . Cores can be had in the $250 range with the brake but shipping puts a hurt on that route. Still early in the hunt though, not in a huge rush. Something will show up eventually. Thanks, Hal |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | what model allison and what vehicle was the donor for what you are using?
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Regular
| It's a 2006 Sliverado 4x4, LBZ Allison 1000. I've already found the extension housing and shaft and they are on the way. If I had the flanged yoke I could mount a disc on it and use a electric caliper for a parking brake, I've got a couple of Tesla calipers that could be used but the drum would be the simple method. All fun stuff.
Hal |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | I like the idea of a rotor/caliper setup, too, but I ended up going with an Afco brake-lock. I scored a new electric-switch version kit (made in Canada) for $40-smackers.
https://abcodistributors.ca/lever-brake-locks/
I plumbed mine in just inches ahead of the rear booster. Switch on the dash within easy reach... no more busting my balls wrestling with that stupid e-brake lever. The install took about 2 hrs for the works.
After having nothing but grief with the trans-brake on my previous 727, my decision was easy: these things lock the rear wheels of garbage, recycling, delivery trucks etc. solid. Yes, you certainly must keep your brakes in top shape in order for them to be reliable. I'm asking mine to hold shit long enough for me to get out and chock the wheels when I park, which I always do if I park on any grade, which is almost never.
Terry
#846 |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Bill S and Lou looked at putting a disc at the differential end of the driveshaft. |
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Regular
| I've put a disc on the Dana 70 pinion in my GMC rear engine project but of course it isn't running to confirm it's effectiveness.
One of the reasons the micros aren't approved for on road vehicles is as things cool off the pressure drops and the holding ability of the brakes diminishes. I used that Afco manual version years ago on a MH project and after parking after a long downhill grade I came back to find the rig had moved enough to fortunately, rest against a curb. Modifying a mechanical type micro using a robust spring that would compensate for the cooling effect could make one work, 'probably'. But the drum should be able to accomplish the necessary parking assist for the FMC and meet any legal saftey concerns. BUT, the disc brake still looks like a viable option.
Hal
Edited by hal 2021-10-21 1:56 PM
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Allison E brake and yoke
