Elite Veteran
 
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Hey,
Tried out my new 'Motive Products' #1105 MTV Universal Adapter Plate (for master cylinder/MC) to bleed my brakes today.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/products/1105-rectangular-early-ameri...
I've never been happy with Jim Blacks' method of bleeding, involving disconnecting two tube flare-nuts on the brake-switch block then attaching 'two' flare nuts from your bleeder to it and then having at it. It's always a bitch to get in there and risk of stripping out flare-nuts is always present. Then when you're done, you still have to bleed out the two short lines back to the MC.
I've been eyeing making a 'plate style' bleeder unit and I'd already started designing my own unit over a year ago, but when I saw this it swayed me to try it out.
I read reviews on it and agree it's made really well. The major complaint was the ineffectual 'J' hooks & chains they provide to attach it to the MC.
I departed from those and went with a couple of large 3/8" U-bolts which worked well, I think.
The #1105 unit is plenty big enough for the large master we use - BUT - I was having trouble getting a good seal to hold pressure in my bleeder canister. I suspect I didn't have the plate centred properly on the reservoir.
Also, the U-bolts I found were 4" across (centre to centre) x 6" long, which necessitated marking out and drilling 4 over-size holes to make them fit. (see: pics) Slightly wider ones (say 4 1/2") might be better if you could find them.
They give you a good 1/8" or so thick rubber pad glued to the plate to seal to the MC and the U-bolt method should work with proper adjustment/placement.
Note: I spoke to a tech at M/Products and he recommended getting the plate 'sealed' on the MC first - WITH NO FLUID IN THE BLEEDER.
Once you have a good seal, let off the pressure in the bleeder and throw 2 or 3 quarts of fresh fluid in it, pump it back up and have at it.
I was able - even with the slow leak - to keep mine above 5 - 10 psi and get one bleed done before pumping it again. Once I get the plate sealing properly, I should be able to do 2 or 3 bleeds before re-pumping.
Motive also sells an nice bleeder, too.
KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN TO KEEP DIRT/PARTICLES OUT OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM.
I used a turkey baster to suck what old fluid out of the reservoir I could, then refilled it with fresh fluide BEFORE I attached the plate over it.
I could pump mine to about 20 psi but the 'so-so' seal I'd achieved leaked-down about 1-psi per minute. Still it was good enough to do each bleed station then pump it up again for the next one.
Order of bleeding: (1) furthest/rear H-vac first (2) furthest rear (drivers) wheel (3) rear pass side (4) front H-vac (5) drivers front (6) front pass side.
When I was done, the moment of truth was at hand: how much fluid would there be left in the reservoirs when I took the plate off?
Answer: the rear large reservoir actually had more in it (started @ 1/2" from the top/finished @ 1/4"). The small reservoir was down 50%.
Neither appeared to have any air into the system.
I'm stoked about this! Once I get the hang of it I think it'll make this job much easier = doing it more often!
Will report after road test.
Pics in the Album section! https://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
Happy Motoring!
Terry
#846
Edited by andy1canada 2025-02-19 6:52 PM
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NEW BRAKE-BLEEDER M/C - PLATE TEST.
