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Elite Veteran
 
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Howdy,
Stumbled on this and am thinking its the way I'm going.
I say this with one caveat: I'm not endorsing/suggesting this as a replacement for a proper park brake; neither does the manufacturer.
http://www.abcodistributors.ca/
These are designed for heavier vehicles and I will justify using it for the following reasons:
- I keep my brakes in top shape; important, as this unit works only as good as your brakes.
- I do not park on grades (unless it's an emergency) and regardless, even if there's the slightest grade, I will set the brake-lock then chock the wheels.
- with an eye ahead to my Cummins conversion, less length in the drive-line is more.
Got a line (Cr. List) on one NIB for $100 CAD ask.
Terry
#846
Edited by andy1canada 2018-05-13 10:26 AM
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Veteran
Location: Olympia, Washington | Terry:
It says not to use silicone fluid.
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Not to worry George, I run premium Canadian Rye whiskey in my brake lines!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I've seen a lot of the manual versions on off road rigs...they work well. The older electric ones draw a good bit of power and have been know to drain batteries. The newer electric ones I've heard are normally closed and use power to open them...I haven't looked at it in any detail though. Mico makes a lot of versions of this as well..
Edited by LCAC_Man 2018-05-13 9:34 PM
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Veteran
Location: Olympia, Washington | Len:
From my reading they hit the switch to set and to release with no current draw when set or off. It must use the contained pressure to 'hold' the block in place. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | That may be it then, it's been years since I looked into them, I ended up building a transfer case yoke mounted mechanical disc brake set up for my jeep rather than going with a hydraulic lock. |
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AFCO Hydrolic Brake Lock...
