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FMC #850
Author: dkarnath (Show all albums)

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First183 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16]


Had a couple front brake lines built, fancy fancy...


(2 Comments)
I replaced my analog Stewart Warner voltmeter with a new fancy digital meter, this gauge only monitors the "house" batteries. I wanted a more precise gauge due 850 still having the 12v only fridge mixed with dry camping.


Both #184 and #850's brakes adjusted/tightened working the brake adjuster tool towards the INSIDE of the wheel, you work the tool towards the OUTSIDE of the wheel to back the adjustment off. This picture/diagram is misleading if you ask me....


Four of my left front studs were looking like the stud on the left, I'm sure they were the original studs. Not happy studs. The stud on the right is a new one. All five of the RH-Fronts were in good shape as they weren't original and I re-used.


The steer axle is Euclid E-8992R studs, BUT their is about ten different part numbers for this stud, the vendor sent M-195. Not a common stud either, I had to dig kinda deep on the web to find these. I run the original steel 17" wheels. But these studs also work with the Alcoa wheel on the front axle.


With the old drum setting on a couple pieces of 2x4, I laid the new one on top and hammered in the new studs, it made for a nice work station when your swinging a sledge.


(2 Comments)
With a piece of Grandpa's (RIP) custom made 1970's Chrysler torsion bar, I was able to beat the new studs in. I beat the drum at Hop Scotch.


This shows the difference between the front (left) and the rear (right) stud. I do not have a part # for the rear studs.


This is the Chicago Rawhide part number for the front wheel bearing grease seal.


This is what my "new" Coker Tire flaps look like after being installed on #850 for couple/few years.... My rig is stored outside with hub caps and no direct sun on the tires. So the ambient atmosphere? is breaking down the rubber on these Coker flaps at the valve stem through hole and flattening my tubes, the rest of the flap looks and feels like new.


The picture doesn't really show it too well, but where the hole is in this tube, the rubber has aged and looks broken down, while the rest of the tube looks brand new. This hole lines up with the deteriorated/weathered tube flap.


The Coker flap looks nice, but compared to the Michelin flaps that were in #850 (I still have one) they are really thin. The (25+ year old??)Michelin flap was really thick, almost 1/2" at the valve stem. The Coker flap is around 1/8" thick all the way around.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First183 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16]

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