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Contributor
| Whilst pulling exhaust manifolds I noticed a puddle of goo near the ignition panel in the engine compartment. Following the trail uphill, the source seems to be the voltage regulator on the ignition panel. I'm coach #970, parts manual is for chassis #648 and below so slightly different, but this conclusion seems correct. The goo looks like potting from inside the regulator, and there are traces along the bottom edge of that component.
Thru the new bedroom access panel, with the carb removed (an edelbrock 1411 btw), I've had a look at the rats nest of wiring around the distributor and coil. Sinking feeling. There are some ham-handed splices here, with no attention paid to wire gauge, color, and even some missing wire nuts leaving the wire ends exposed. I am looking at a week of forensic work just getting things back to their schematic configuration.
I'll post pictures if anyone is interested.
In the meanwhile, I think I need or will soon need a new regulator. Does anyone have one to spare? I'll buy it, and wait until I verify correct connections before installing it.
If there's an alternative aftermarket solution I'm very open to that route; either way I'll document what I do for posterity. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | I think the part you are talking about is the ignition module not the voltage regulator. I have seen the resin melt out of them before. How many wires are in the plug going into the part you are talking about? 5 would be the ignition module. Any good parts store should have them. Might take a picture of the melted item to be sure.
Bill |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | Do not be alarmed. Most parts stores will have this part in stock. Buy one to carry for a spare. Though ugly, the potting compound is not a sign of immediate failure. Use it until it fails. I have had weeping units work for years.
While a 1411 is a totally adequate carburetor, the 1406, gives me better performance and fuel efficiency.
Henry
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Contributor
| Thanks guys, big relief. I'll get in it this morning to verify, then take pictures to the parts store.
Thanks for the recommendation on the 1406 Henry, we'll see how this 1411 runs first, I rebuilt it. The 1-3-5-7 side float bowl had some nasty baked residue in it, and judging by the intake runners and exhaust ports fuel distribution and heat were big issues, and likely some air leaks too. There was a quadrajet to square adapter being used as a heat spacer under the 1411, I'm putting the correct edelbrock 8723 spacer in place of it and sealing things up right. I'm also going with some shorty headers, heat wrapped, to move the exhaust route away from the carb and valve covers. The original exhaust gaskets with the heat dam were nearly burned away, and the valve cover gasket on the 1-3-5-7 side had failed some time ago.
I don't know Chrysler engines, but this one seems pretty clean inside compared to some old Pontiacs I used to play with. No black scrambled eggs in the valve train or covers. Coolant gushing out of an exhaust bolt hole was a big surprise! Should have google'd Chrysler big blocks before I grabbed the wrenches! :0 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I would buy a new Ignition Module, and keep the gooey one for a spare. I did the same as you, anti-freeze pouring out the exhaust manifold bolt holes??? Oh well, need to change out the coolant anyway.....With the "low" style exhaust mannys, you use studs, so no more unleashing the sweet sauce if you need to pull a manifold. I think your going to have some people chime in about not using exhaust wrap. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Henry, How does the 1406 600cfm pull under a load? You'd think too small for the hills? |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | Not poorly at all. If you go to Summit racing, you will be able to calculate your CFM reqirements. You will find the 1406 capacity to be above that required by a 440 at up to 5,000 rpm. Much better carb for higher altitude. Henry |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | If you use the headers please let us know how it works out.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
I went with the hard to find low cast iron manifolds on #902.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Thanks Henry |
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Contributor
| Bill,
Thanks for the look see.
Those manifolds are what I need, my exhaust is already routed exactly as yours appears to be, exiting at the drivers side rear. When I find a set, I'll likely pull the headers off - I'm looking for longevity mainly and headers are a consumable, even good ones. I won't feel like crawling around the engine 10 years from now.
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Contributor
| Thanks Henry, I think sizing the carb to the running profile will get the torque at the rpm where I need it, so a 1406 may be in my future. Since this carb is already on the coach, I'll run it while I get to know the machine.
It seemed like it was geared too tall on the ride home from the sale, but that may have been an accelerator linkage issue. I don't think the secondaries were opening fully, and I never got a kickdown out of the trans either. The carb was put on by someone in a hurry, there are a lot of adjustments needed now.
Once I'm happy with the brakes and all possible fire hazards are addressed, I'll get out on the road with it for real. |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | I have one and probably two of the manifolds. I will sell the pair for $300 plus shipping. No cracks or problems.
Henry |
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Contributor
| I'll give you a shout before our next trip to Charleston. We go thru Columbia, so it's a short detour. I'll probably need quite a few other items by then, and I'd eventually like to have a rebuildable alternator, spare water pump, brake drums and wheel cylinders, brake boosters, and so on. I plan to have this coach a long time, my (adult) kids are already eyeing it.
I'll know when I've had things apart and checked the condition of what's in #970.
Thanks for the good advice! |
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Contributor
| Henry,
Do you have one, or two of the manifolds? Do they have the flanges and heat shields as well?
Thanks,
- Rich
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Ignition Voltage Regulator?
