|
|
Regular
Location: Greensboro, NC | Hi all I am in need of Idler arm bushings for coach 934 can anyone help me find these items with after market part numbers Thank you Chip Rives |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | The FMC Idler Arm bushing is out of a 65-66 Mustang, or 60-65 Falcon.
Part Numbers – Moog K8094 , NAPA MRC 12240, Raybestos 5751007, AC Delco 45G12007.
They cost $10-15 each. You need 4, all the same.
Turn ON ! Lou #120 |
|
| |
|
Regular
Location: Greensboro, NC | OK thank you for the information now I can get my coach back out on the road and maybe make some of the rallies like I did when I was growing up |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | You growed up? I'm still workin' on it...
Welcome to the group!
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Regular
Location: Greensboro, NC | Well not really I have three of these things and I love them I think they're the best coach that was ever made |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Post some pictures of the removal and installation. |
|
| |
|
Contributor
Location: Cupertino, CA | When I replaced mine, I also needed to have new shafts made because the old ones were rusted and worn. Now made of stainless steel. |
|
| |
|
Regular
Location: Greensboro, NC | I was able to get the bushings with no problem now my question is am I going to have the idler arm drilled and tapped for a grease fitting as these new bushings are metal and rubber |
|
| |
|
Regular
Location: Greensboro, NC | Also I am going to have to have a new master cylinder for two of coaches one has disc brakes and the other two have drum brakes does anyone have or know the part numbers |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | The "old" bushings are also metal and rubber. Mark a place on the middle of the barrel of each idler arm for a grease Zerk fitting BEFORE REMOVAL that will be EASY TO GET A GREASE GUN ON. And remember to drill, tap, and clean out the shavings when you have the idler arms out . . . and put the zerk fitting in just before you start reinstalling the new bushed idler/steering arms. Also drill a 1/4" hole in the middle of the inside sleeve to allow grease to also transfer between the sleeve and the shaft, while you have the sleeves out. Grease and rubber really don't go well, but you've got to do something to improve this poor design. Grease sparingly . . .
You will rediscover all the cuss words you thought you would never say again as you try to get the shafts and bushings out of each arm. Ask for divine guidance and you may get each out . . . if not . . . make the best deal you can with the devil. You may have to cut the metal "flare end" off one end of the removed arm, in order to get you homemade driver to push that bushing "IN" to get the sleeve to push the other far end bushing out. Then you turn your driver around and drive the other "flange removed" bushing out the end you just pushed it "in". In any case, you will end up making some kind of one or more drivers. Nice to have a lathe and some steel bar stock. You may want to use a brake hone to clean up (NOT ENLARGE !) the ID of the arm barrel and the ID of the spacer, as well as some wire brushing of the OD of the sleeve. I have used Detroit Diesel International Compound #2 (About $30 for a quart can. I have only bought one back in 1968 . . . still about 2/3rds full) as a "super slip-em" for metal to metal, to push the bushings into the idler arm barrel. But don't forget to PUT THE SLEEVE IN before you push the other bushing in the other end.
Examine the "plates" that the shaft sticks thru. If they are wallowed out, oblong, thinned, etc. there are ways to repair them . . . but that is a different issue.
Use cotter pin type nuts and cotter pins thru shaft and nut. That way you will see if something has sheared and is coming loose, which is not always apparent with nylon or other self locking nuts.
I leave it to you to determine for yourself just what the Service Bulletin saying to check the tightness of the shaft nuts to 100 ft/-lbs torque . . . against WHAT ??? The COTTER PIN ON THE OTHER END ???
Bush IN ! Lou #120
Edited by hemi354az 2016-10-22 4:04 PM
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | This thread is about Idler Arm Bushings (YOU started it) . . . not Master Cylinder Part Numbers.
The Part Numbers for the SMALL and LARGE Hydrovac Drum Brake Master Cylinders have been stated several times already in this and the other Yahoo FMC Website. That is what "SEARCH" is for . . .
Disc Brake MC ??? Good Luck.
Search ON ! Lou #120 |
|
| |
|
Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Some say to add a grease fitting, others do not. I recently had mine replaced and I elected to not add a grease fitting. A primary reason is the grease causes rubber that is not compounded for grease exposure to disintegrate at an accelerated rate. Since these bushings are not normally exposed to grease I elected to keep them that way. I would agree that it would be prudent to coat the shaft with a lubricant prior to assembly. There is not much motion while traveling, only while parking/maneuvering, so without going to the trouble of adding lubrication I expect mine to last well over 50,000 miles. That is far enough for me!
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Posted some pictures . . . Lou #120 |
|
| |
|
Regular
Location: Greensboro, NC | Yes I got them I am Friends with J D Bare and his neighbor one of the original diesel engine installers here in Greensboro NC he is directing me on my repairs the best he can but he has none of his original notes that is why I am always looking for help with getting part numbers and any advice I can get. Thanks for all that you have given |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Wish I still had a press.... |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I think if I ever had to replace these I'd just turn down some oilite / bronze stock and put the zerk in...I don't see any value in a rubber bushing in there allowing the shaft to deflect off center; if one is available going with a urethane replacement would at least be more rigid and not have any reaction with grease. |
|
| |
Idler arm bushings
