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| I am in desperate need of the following FMC Motorcoach parts-|
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|Hello FMC Family, |
My name is Bob Clifford located in Coos Bay, Oregon. I am the owner of #309 which I live in full time. Chrysler 440 with 727 Torque Flight Automatic Transmission. I recently discovered this group and am hopeful someone can help me out with these parts so I can get my coach roadworthy again and not continuously parked on the street.
I am in need of the following items please:
Driveline U-Joints (Stolen when Transmission Rebuilt) NOTE: Part located from Bill Sitton
Rear Wheel(s) U-Joints (Maintenance Precaution?)
Windshield - Driver side (Vandalized and Broken)
Windshield Seal/Gasket Set (Old and Leaking)
Rear Window Seal/Gasket (Old and Leaking)
Rear Side Sliding Window Complete - Passenger side (Vandalized and Broken)
Sliding Window Clips/Lock (Missing)
Tires 19.5 - Minimum 4 to 6 (Vandalized and Punctured)
The following items are needed but not an immediate necessity:
Newer Norcold Refrigerator/Freezer (Over 20 years old and never worked when I got motor coach)
Rear Bumper Spare Tire Mount (Broken)
Any assistance obtaining these parts would be appreciated. Please let me know if you have any of the above parts, condition, and how much you would like to sell for? Depending on your location I could attempt to pick-up with my car or alternatively ship here to Oregon. Thank you for your valuable time and help.
My contact information is:
T: (541) 808-8993 Call, text or voicemail.
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada
|Morning Bob and welcome to the Group, |
I'm on the south end of Vancouver Island just north of you.
If you can't score front windows anywhere else (spare parts or a parts coach somewhere) try these guys: https://coachglass.com/
The rest of the flat-glass can be cut at many auto glass, or, specialty glass joints. You'll prolly need to make up a cardboard or plywood (door-skin) template to make sure they get it right.
Other's will likely chime-in about the U-joints. The window clips might be an issue but you may be able to swap something else in for that job.
If the cooling unit is cooked on your fridge you may as well buy another new one, or, a later model used one if you want to gamble and save a few bucks... like me. Watch Cr. List etc.
I'm running 19.5" Bridgestone's on mine and am happy with them. Try to find the tallest tire you can for the most favorable final drive-ratio gains. I would be looking at stuff in the 33" - 34" dia. range. Again, if you want to save a few bucks you can watch the used market as well but your selection will be far less. Also, watch them 'date-codes' as - according to Michelin - you should not run tires over 10 yrs of age regardless of wear or condition.
With a little luck maybe someone out there also has some window gasket(s) for you, too. Is your rear window gasket toast, or, just full of crud? Are you certain it don't just need a good cleaning then reinstall? Also, be sure the water is not getting in between the alum frame and the fiberglass as that requires another job to stop it.
If all else fails, here's what I did in a pinch with #509 before I sold it. I did this about 8yrs ago so I'm recounting as best I can here
Do it under cover or when it's not raining.
Get 4 - 5 tubes of black polyurethane (Dap) 50 yr window & door caulking. (says '50yr' but we all know it's BS!). Should only be a few bucks per tube. Put rubber gloves on and have a clean 1" - 2" putty knife handy. A few clean rags won't hurt either.
When you're ready to start, remove rear glass and prepare (clean-clean-then clean some more) the frame and glass. Not positive but I think I first put a small bead of caulking around the inner lip of the window frame to set the glass to. Memory ain't what it used to be. Once the glass is back in place and you're ready to start piling on the caulking around the outer perimeter, make sure you start with the caulking tube cut-off for the widest bead width you can to make it easy on yourself. Once you've got the perimeter filled, take your putty knife and while holding it at a consistent angle, go around the entire perimeter of the frame slowly smoothing it out while pressing it firmly into the channel. You will get the hang of it and actually be surprised how much it looks like the 'real-deal'. Wipe off any excess from the coach and the knife as you go.
Note: regardless that if you do this correctly it will be virtually 'bomb-proof', you will not want to be the next guy who has to replace the rear glass on this coach. Polyurethane is a bitch to remove.
Good luck, Bob!
Location: Houston, Texas
|we have a free FMC for parts in Houston Texas....maybe too far ? |
Rico & Carmen
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