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Weird Brake issue Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
General Discussion -> Mechanic's Corner | Message format |
woodlandfarms |
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Regular | We rolled out #86 today, with my neighbor at the wheel. On the flat part of our drive way (around 200 feet of Gravel) we tested the brakes. Now this machine has not been driven in at least a year and before that drive at least another 4 years. We didn't get far as they did not pass my level of comfort. I know that there are a lot of systems here that have to be looked at, but wanted to see if this is quirks or issues, and if an issue have any of you expereineced the same and can share what you found out. Here are the issues, looking for advice from anyone as to solutions. Brakes need to be pumped to build up pressure Right front brake locks up first, then the left front. Rears are working but inefective. (Brakes got warm but not nearly as hot as the front). Rear booster - found the vacuum hose was pinched by whomever installed the cruise control. Rear booster - There is a vacuum valve of some sort. Is this a serviceable part, or do you just take the whole master cylinder int Oil and bleeding - I have seen the instructions, I might be taking this to a shop as brakes are one thing I am not comfortable servicing on my own at this point. My mechanic buddy says I should just bleed them myself. That said, do you have a pump that you like to use? The one I see at Crapa looks and feels like it wouldn't handle 30 feet of hydraulic hose. | ||
dkarnath |
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Elite Veteran Location: Medford, OR | If you haven't inspected the brakes, you need to do that before spending/wasting time/money bleeding. I've been down that road. Contaminated brakes shoes can cause lock up, loose wheel bearings can cause lock up, improperly adjusted shoes can cause lock up, broken springs etc..... leaking wheel cylinders will continue to draw in air into the system making it impossible to get bleed correctly also. After all brakes have been inspected, adjusted, then you can bleed the entire system. using a pump garden sprayer with fresh brake fluid tied into the system at the master cylinder will blow all that old fluid and air out. Theirs a lot of write ups on this forum about it. Sounds like you found the issue with the rear booster. Remember to bleed the boosters first before the wheel cylinders. | ||
byegorge |
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Veteran Location: Olympia, Washington | At the very least the drums are rusty from sitting so long need to break em in again. | ||
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