|
|
Elite Veteran
  
Location: Oceanside, CA | Going to make it tough for motor mount work only having direct access from the rear; they don't take much time to remove and the extra light and improved access sure were worth the time for me. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Yes you will be better off pulling the corners and drivers side grill. Also the drivers lower fiberglass corner. I went through extra work to avoid pulling the fiberglass corner but much easier to remove it. And I wasn’t changing the engine. Just the multiple in and outs to get the overdrive situated.
Bill |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Sage advice I guess. Will take another look at it.
Am looking forward to douching that engine compartment of all the oil, grease, grime and extraneous wiring, fixtures & plumbing.
My new 600 + lbs weigh scale should be here at the end of the month so I'm also looking forward to documenting & cataloging the various weights of all the crap I pull off of it vs what goes back on it if it's replaced by something else, like the radiator assembly for example: I figure that entire (dry) assembly has to be packing about 100/lbs or more. So... I'm looking at a rad assembly - complete with mounts and overflow jug - from a late model Mini Cooper (the high-performance version of course) that should better cut that weight by about 2/3 'rds!
This, along with my new rear-suspension helium-filled airbag system, otta' get me right about where I want to be on that back axle :-0
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Did you weigh your coach before you started to get a baseline? |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Yeah I did. Just need to relocate the numbers I wrote down. Got some more done today. Gotta' say the way they attached them alum engine house panels is sure hoaky! Had to zip-disk two or three bolts to get'em off.
Figure I'll leave the two bottom fairing panels on for now. With the 3' x 4' opening I should have lots of room to mess around in there.
Nother pic in the album: http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | For the first couple you do have to be a bit of a contortionist to get to them but as they come off the improved access helps you get to the rest...buy a couple cans of PB Blaster and take 30mins to soak down every bolt head you see. And yes...the more you peel layers back the more you'll see the hidden "compromises" they made during production..
I agree with Bill, I think that getting that drivers lower fiberglass corner off both for the access and to keep from damaging it will be worth your while, they are just on with some 1/8" aluminum pop rivets...drive the stem out and the heads drill right off with a 3/16" drill bit (just don't go past the head).
Edited by LCAC_Man 2018-11-25 8:37 AM
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Yep I’ll say it one more time. The drivers lower corner needs to come off. I fought around it but caved and things were much easier after removal. I had to remove the drivers grill door and the forward piece it is hinged to to gain access to one rivet.
As a carpenter you don’t have the standing on your head reaching around behind you in the dark to hold a wrench with one hand while wrenching in the next compartment to get a bolt out. One trick, if you can’t see it close your eyes. Takes practice!
Bill |
|
| |
|
Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Yes, don’t be bashful! Take it all off as, based on experience, you will need to come at things from all directions. That includes while sliding under it on your back. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | I have to go under it?
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | andy1canada - 2018-11-25 12:16 PM I have to go under it? Terry #846
You will!! Many times!! To prepare for the underside working, you need something slick to protect you from the gravel parking surface and to allow you to easily maneuver once under the coach. A large piece of card board will work, but if not available, then get a 4x8 piece of thin laminated wall covering. It will protect you from the gravel, make it easier to find the nut, screw, washer that you dropped and allow for sliding around to position yourself under the coach. While under there, be sure to inspect your axel U joints while they have no load. I replaced all of mine after the inspection!! They will now be subject to a higher torque force than before. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Speaking of surface, what do you plan to use to move the engines in and out from the bay? You'll likely need to do it a couple times when setting motor mounts.. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Yes, U-joints, spindles, wheel bearings are all going to get some love. Then the front end.
I'm adding an exhaust brake so I can dramatically reduce the wear & tear on the service brakes as well as bring the whole works to heel on some of the sick grades around here. Seriously, it gets the pulse going when you realize how hot them drums can get at times.
The coach is getting put up on what's basically packed road-base. So, I've got a few sheets of 3/4 plywood to roll the engine hoist on. Be a bit cumbersome still but I think its doable.
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | What exhaust brake do you plan to use...I've been doing some looking at them as well..
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | I put a PAC Brake on my 94 cummins. Easy install. Remove a cast iron elbow that attached to turbo and header pipe. Replace with the brake housing. No cutting or welding going into the Dodge truck. You do need to change the exhaust valve springs on the Cummins 12 valve.
Bill |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Likely this one but haven't nailed it down yet: https://pacbrake.com/product/c44061-prxb-exhaust-brake-kit/
Apparently you also need this, too: https://www.xtremediesel.com/pacbrake-c11400-4-mounting-group
When I get around to a 'test fit' of the engine and trans wiggled in there, I'll better be able to envision if the straight version, or, the 90-degree unit will work best. Sort'a depends where the exhaust exits the coach, too. Maybe stacks ;-0
Got me an engine leveler for my crane hoist today.
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Hey Lenny: https://westslope.craigslist.org/pts/d/pacbrake-exhaust-brake/674055...
Not sure if it's a 3" or 4" kit but if it all works and is all there, you're saving a G-note if ya figure out how to work a secure deal on Cr. List.
Saw this a couple of weeks back and when you said you were looking at them, the light went on.
typed in: pacbrake site:craigslist.org/pts/ ...and wham-O, first one on the list. It's an omen buddy, get that wallet out!
Good luck!
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Sorry I forgot to also tell you that I called the Pacbrake head office just across the pond from me and they suggested I deal with Thoroughbred Diesel of all places. Claimed they had good prices.
For what its worth.
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I've already got an air system so I won't need a compressor or tank. I probably will just wire up a solenoid valve to a spare switch I've already got for this and skip the controller altogether...I think all it does in the duramax is make sure you're not on the throttle and have tow/haul engaged...I think I can be trusted to do that on my own..
probably buy a stand alone and build my own stuff to support; something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-OEM-Ford-E9HZ-2W068-B-7-8L-Dies...
That particular Duramax Pacbrake is for an LMM Duramax which is the next newer version than mine (when DPF came in ) and runs on GMLOWSPEED data vice the Class2 data bus that mine does so that controller wouldn't work with my ECM/Tune.
Edited by LCAC_Man 2018-11-28 6:18 PM
|
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Knowing what you're capable of, I should'a figured you could go the 'fab-something' route.
The epay piece don't say what diameter of exhaust it is for? What's yours?
Also, what provision do you have to control lock-up as you gear-down?
I forgot you already got a compressor on board... in case you have to frame a house or something while you're out & about :-o
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | probably wouldn't buy that particular one(seen standalones for a good bit less) ...but something like that...I still would need to look at a pressure relief/blow-off scheme if I went stand alone or some other means of protection maybe a pressure switch that would shut the solenoid off or something like that..
Edited by LCAC_Man 2018-11-28 6:51 PM
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | The kit I have is more like the C44073.
https://pacbrake.com/product/c44073-prxb-exhaust-brake-kit/
Attaches to the turbo instead of in the pipe. Interesting that these are all compressed air operated, mine is vacuum actuated. Flip a switch and it is activated at closed throttle.
Bill |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Made in Canada - eh!
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | found one...spec'd for an International DT466 but I'll make it work, it has the same 3.5" exhaust diameter that I do.
I won't get to this until spring time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382569995959
probably should have spun this off into and "Engine Brake" topic rather than high-jacking Terry's build thread.
Edited by LCAC_Man 2018-12-05 5:34 PM
|
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | No worries Len.
Do you have lock-up control in your lower gears? Need that with these things. I imagine you do as even the 'ghetto' 47RE is able to be easily modified to be able to lock-up the lower gears when you need to.
Good score though. Is it the PXRB model or whatever they call it?
Terry
#846 |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Tow/Haul mode will do lower gear lock up on the allison, can't imagine needing this if I'm not in that mode. This one is pre-PXRB, it's just an old school air cylinder controlled valve. For the money I can afford to make some changes/additions.
|
|
| |
#846 Cummins Swap.
