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Elite Veteran
 
Location: Medford, OR | #324 showed up at my house this weekend, it was having smoking rear brake issues. I'm going to share some pictures of the rig and what I find. It has a pretty white and blue paint job, and some pretty nice custom interior work. I started an album
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | She's a beauty alright Dan... are you going to make an offer on it? ;-)
You prolly already know this but I'll say it regardless: check that it's either the small master cylinder (with the pressure relief valves in the output ports) together with the small H-vacs, or, if the brakes have been upgraded, it has the large master cyl with the large H-vacs. Mixing them up, ie. large master with small H-vacs and vice-versa yields either two too many pressure relief valves or none at all.
Looking forward to hearing what you find.
Good luck,
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I posted a couple more pics in the album.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Terry, I will be attending the Oakridge Rally in 324! You should come with your car and hang. I have a month to get confident in 324's ability to safely take me too and fro for a 3 hour drive. I have some work to do. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | So, did you buy this sucker or what? Got family commitments and won't be able to make it, regardless.
I'm curious about the pic of the master you posted. I thought the ones that were 'round' at both ends were the early ones? Mine is the later version and is squared on the small reservoir end and only slightly rounded on the other, closest to the firewall.
I guess checking the output ports for the presence of pressure relief valves would cinch it for you.
Yeah, weak pedal return spring(s) can cause issues; pedal has to come all the way off. Learned that from Billy years back.
Terry
#846 |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | I have a box of the original brake pedal return springs. Pedal assembly has to come apart to replace the spring.
Bill |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | B. Sitton - 2019-08-27 6:20 PM I have a box of the original brake pedal return springs. Pedal assembly has to come apart to replace the spring. Bill
my pedal doesn't come all the way up on its own. I lift it with my foot. I think I need one of those springs! Bring to rally. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | First lube the area where the stop light switch contacts the pedal bracket. I used door ease, a waxish stick and it fixed my pedal return issue.
Bill |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | It doesn’t always get that high up and will leave the the stop lights on. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yeah, we might be needing some return springs....The new MC was delivered today, I'll get it in this weekend....
Terry Terry Terry, Im not sure about buying.....lol |
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Veteran
Location: Olympia, Washington | Dan:
Remember to check the boosters my front hung up causing the brakes to smoke one end only. Removing vacuum released the brakes. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Thanks for the tip George |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Here's the new small master cylinder for the record books again....
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Does it come with new residual pressure regulators? |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yes sir |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | The FMC "Small Hydrovac" Master Cylinder #36359 I have just has a Check Valve in each discharge port.
Guess I didn't get everything it was supposed to come with . . .
Lou #120
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I can feel them inside the discharge port with a paper clip. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | They might be 'packing-worms' Dan. Sometimes they wiggle in there at the factory.
Gotta' check and be sure. Hold a small glass of sour-milk about 3 inches away from each port - for a minimum of 1/2 hour for each side - and if nothing pokes its head out then they're actually check valves.
This works way-better than the paper clip method. We do it up here in Canada all the time.
Please let us know how you made out, with the worms I mean.
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Added some more pics to the album. This weekend I spent quite a few hours working on the rig, got a lot done really. I've now have pretty good brake peddle after installing the correct MC, bleeding the system and adjusting all four brakes. I may end up finding some poor ol' soul in Oakridge to help me peddle bleed a quart or so through the system, I know they could be a little better, still an air bubble in there somewhere. 324 had a timing skip when turning over the engine to start it and the engine didn't sound as good as I knew it could,(you'll see the spark plug picture I posted!). I knew tuning need to be done. So moving on in my quest for a decent tune, I found the vacuum advance diaphragm was blown in the dizzy and the timing was set to 14 degrees BTDC. It was perfect "timing" haha..for me to find this brand new distributor locked away in one of the storage cabinets in 324!! Score! I put the new distributor in, timed the engine to about 9 degrees. I had to increase the idle a little on the carb and tune the idle air screws. I went for a drive and it had a dead spot off idle. I knew right away it was the advance tension/spring adjustment, I forgot to "soften" it up. I backed the adjustment WAY off. So far it seems to have a nice transition.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
Tires arrived and I started installing the new 55amp AC/DC converter.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
I won't be cleaning this...New one on the way.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Cool daddy... very cool!
Terry
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | dkarnath - 2019-09-09 10:39 AM
Added some more pics to the album. This weekend I spent quite a few hours working on the rig, got a lot done really. I've now have pretty good brake peddle after installing the correct MC, bleeding the system and adjusting all four brakes. I may end up finding some poor ol' soul in Oakridge to help me peddle bleed a quart or so through the system, I know they could be a little better, still an air bubble in there somewhere. 324 had a timing skip when turning over the engine to start it and the engine didn't sound as good as I knew it could, (you'll see the spark plug picture I posted! ). I knew tuning need to be done. So moving on in my quest for a decent tune, I found the vacuum advance diaphragm was blown in the dizzy and the timing was set to 14 degrees BTDC. It was perfect "timing" haha..for me to find this brand new distributor locked away in one of the storage cabinets in 324!! Score! I put the new distributor in, timed the engine to about 9 degrees. I had to increase the idle a little on the carb and tune the idle air screws. I went for a drive and it had a dead spot off idle. I knew right away it was the advance tension/spring adjustment, I forgot to "soften" it up. I backed the adjustment WAY off. So far it seems to have a nice transition.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
Tires arrived and I started installing the new 55amp AC/DC converter.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
I won't be cleaning this...New one on the way.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
Hello Dan  Just so you will know the system should have silicon brake fluid unless it has been changed since 2015. The distributor came brand new from Napa. Glad it is helping someone out. That box of parts road around under there for 13 years and I don't think I ever used any on the road. lol I am glad to see the old girl is still alive and still in motion. Take care Darrell D |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Ummm, what happens when DOT3 is mixed into a system that had DOT5?? I have no idea what type of fluid was in it? Is it going to blow up?
This weekend was replace the transmission pan gasket, it was just done at a mechanics shop, but the leak look to be the new gasket? So I did the job myself and I still have the same leak....So I pulled out the degreaser and started really cleaning the upper side of the transmission, it's now raining, so might be a couple days before I investigate more, it might be leaking down from the tail shaft housing area..I replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket. The steering wheel was installed upside down, so I rotated it back, I oiled the bathroom vanity mirror hinges, they were binding some and making it so the closing magnet didn't want to keep them closed when you drove, we'll see if it works. Fixed the left rear tail light, bad bulb. Need to fix the license plate light, front right low/high beam headlight and the drivers side door step light is out. I was hearing a buzzing sound from the house AC climate control box area above the closet? I took the face plate off and found the metal box where all the electrical hides for the AC units didn't have the front cover installed tightly, I think I fixed it. I scrubbed the roof, I just did a half a$$ job, it was raining out and I got soaked. Took it for a drive, the motor gets fairly smoky at heat soak after shut down, not sure if it's just burning off degreaser and old oil? or more oil leaks yet to be discovered. It drove almost as nice as 850 drove. I still need to take 324 to the tire shop and put the new rubber on it. I haven't had a chance to inspect the front end yet. The hot water service line has a blockage somewhere, and I also discovered it has an electric element in the hot water heater and it was turned on and the tank was warm to the touch??? Whoh, new discovery! I filled the system with water a couple weeks ago, but before that???? How long was the element on without water if 324 was plugged into 110? The hot water that came out of the tank stinks like burnt $hit, I'm going to drain it and maybe take a look at it. I'm figuring out what switch does what and etc...so making progress. Other than leaving a couple small oil leaks on the ground, Im going to say it's mechanically ready for me to drive a few hundred miles to Oakridge. The exhaust system needs to be replaced, the HUGE muffler is broken inside it creating a rattle, it has one broken/cracked manifold. Right now Im bummed about the DOT5 vs DOT3. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | DO NOT MIX DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 4.5, DOT 5.1 with DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID !
IT WILL CREATE A GOO THAT WILL PREVENT THE BRAKES FROM WORKING AT ALL !
Now you must FLUSH, FLUSH, FLUSH the COMPLETE BRAKE SYSTEM with alcohol. MC, Brake Switch, both H-Vacs, all eight wheel cylinders and ALL THE LINES IN BETWEEN. No options, no easy way to do it. Break all those lines open and FLUSH, FLUSH, FLUSH !
You may use Brake Cleaner . . . but Alcohol is cheaper . . . or use BOTH.
DOT 5 is BLUE in color . . . that should have been your first clue.
I recommend, and so does the United States Army, DOT 5 Brake Fluid for FMCs.
The US Army has a lot more vehicles than FMC Owners . . . and that is all they use in their trucks. They paid for DOT 5 development/testing and incorporating it into their "Fleet" WORLDWIDE !
ALCOHOL FLUSH ON ! Lou #120
ps: got more info on Tranny Leak. Will start a new thread and some pictures on that soon.
Edited by hemi354az 2019-09-16 2:20 PM
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Dan, does it still have the pan with the cooling pipes through the bottom ? I had good luck with the newer style gaskets. The black plastic that has the oring material inbedded in the plastic. More expensive, but I could get several season of fluid changing, out of one gasket and no leaks. Not as sensitive to overtighting as the cork ones do. That old muffler would rattle on me occasionally. I started to change it out, but it stopped rattling and I liked the sound it had. Hit a mean lick while idling. Especially right before you kicked the choke off. Lol
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Make a vacuum sucker with one of those large pickle jars. Put a ball valve to control vacuum through the metal lid. One more opening to hook your vacuum line to bleeders, line ends or whatever. Hook an automotive or any type of refrigeration vacuum pump to the pickle jar. Hook vacuum hose from pickle jar to bleeders. Farthest away from master cylinder. Suck out all the existing fluid from all bleeders. Then repeat by pouring alcohol into the master cylinder as it sucks it through the system and cleans out the old fluid. When alcohol looks clean. Just let the sucker empty the system again and allow the vacuum to boil off the alcohol residue in the system. Make sure to empty pickle jar before you suck it into you vacuum pump. Also, you do not need a real deep vacuum to do this. Good luck. Worked for me in 2002. I can send pics if needed. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Lou, No blue colored brake fluid came out of it?? Everything I blew through it looked like normal clean looking brake fluid. So apparently it was already done before me. Do I still need to flush the system? I re-read what you wrote, your pretty adamant on flushing it....dam. I have a nice vacuum pump for evacuating. I like the sound of using DOT5 anyway...
Darrell, Yes same nice pan. I changed out the cork gasket for a rubber. The exhaust does sound nice, it rattles on idle pretty good, I noticed the rubber washers on the rear most mount is really loose, I think it's missing a couple rubber washers? You can send me pictures to my email, I'd like to see what you did.
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Dan,
https://www.google.com/search?q=mixing+dot+5+and+dot+3+brake+fluids&...
Lou #120 |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Based on Dans above post, it doesn’t sound like it had DOT 5 in it. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | If you do change to DOT 5 . . . shop around the Nets for it. Prices are all over. Convert every items price to Dollars per Ounce . . . then compare.
Lou #120 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | After going through this a few years back I spent about $30 bucks and built this: http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=145&p...
There's a couple of pics of it in the Album. Not much to look at but it works like a hot-damn!
If purging the system (with de-nurtured alcohol) before the DOT 5 goes in - which IIRC back then Billy said was a 'must-do' - I reckon it makes more sense to 'push & flush' all of it out vs trying to suck it out.
Not sure how you'd get the alcohol out for sure. Maybe air? Opinions on doing this would sure help?
Just my 2-bits.
Terry
#846 |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Lowering the atmospheric pressure with vacuum will boil off the residual alcohol
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Copy that on the pan. I put a newer version on my old 92 first gen Dodge. Simple and very effective design.
Dan, back to the brake fluid color. Drain a sample into a glass or clear plastic container. It will be a transparent purple/blue color. There was a container in the storage compartment with the silicon brake fluid. If you have some pour a sample into a jar and compare the two. Pushing alcohol or pulling it through, either will work. The vacuum will boil off the remaining residue when you are finished. Just as a vacuum on a air cond or refrigeration system boils off water residue in the system, by lowering the pressure, which enables it to reach the boiling point of the liquid residue left behind, or which entered the system when opened up for service repairs. Hope that makes sense. Lol |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Sounds plausible.
I've previously leaned towards 'pressure-bleeding' mostly because Jim Black recommended it along with a few other's on the Forum's. Of course, both methods (vacuum & pressure) enable one to mostly do the job alone.
I guess there's pro's & con's to both methods and if any of you'd care to chime-in with a vote (and why you choose one over the other?) that could be useful to many.
Pressure Bleeding.
Pro's:
- if your canister is big enough you only have to fill it once to do the entire coach.
- 'pushing' the old fluid (and anything else in the lines) out ahead of the new incoming fluid might have a superior 'flushing' effect. Not positive on this, just a suspicion. There's physics at play here that are way above me.
Cons:
- more cumbersome and time-consuming hooking up the bleeder connections to the two switch-block inlets.
- you need to keep a close eye on the level of fluid in the container. If it gets too low - you're pushing-air!
- you need to keep an eye on the pressure and maintain it with a few pumps every now and then, depending on the size/integrity of your pump. (I usually only have to pump mine back up once for the entire job. I start around 15-psi)
- when you're done and you hook the two lines from the master back up to the switch block, you'll still need a helper to 'pedal-bleed' the last of the air and old fluid out of the master and those two short lines.
Vacuum-bleeding.
Pros:
- no need to unhook any brake lines at the master or switch block.
- if canister is large enough could likely do the whole coach in one shot.
Cons:
- have to be vigilant on checking and maintaining the fluid level in the master reservoirs, or, you could 'suck-air' in and you'd have to start all over. If you don't have a helper to do this, I could envision a lot of climbing in & out from under the coach and back & forth etc. (I'm envisioning a brake-fluid container positioned securely over the master to use gravity to feed both reservoirs, same principle as those upside-down watering containers for chickens (and dogs and cats and people) that simply 'burps' more fluid downward as required)
- maybe more pumping action required to maintain vacuum, especially if you do it with one of those smaller pistol-grip jobs. I have one of them 'Mighty Vac' jobbies for oil-extraction etc and it has a larger globe-shaped canister and perhaps that would do the job with less pumping, especially if you could put a shut-off valve on it (to hold vacuum) when you were done each bleed.
Anyone else added to this, would be cool.
Terry
#846 |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | I prefer pressure bleeding for the final method.
My example for vacuum was to remove the dot 3 fluid , then flush and evaporate the residue in the system with the vacuum.
Hard to beat the old school, with one on the pedal and one underneath. The only negative is, how much life do you use up of your new master cylinder with all of the pumping during the bleeding process. They also have the plates that can be put ontop of mc to force fluid through. Just a lot of work either way. Lol
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Thanks Darrell.
Good thing to know. Was wondering since a vacuum would remove the alcohol then does it follow that compressed air would also work? Less pumping ;-0
The thing is, same as when spray painting etc, you'd have to have a good water-trap/filter on your line so you're not sending more moisture into the system. That would suck... but not in a good way.
Terry
#846 |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | If you wanted to flush with pressure after the vacuum. Nitrogen would be the best gas. Cheap and , zero moisture. As common practice in low temp refrigeration systems. Vacuum to 30 inhg. Bring back to 0 psi atm, with nitrogen. Repeat three times to sweep all moisture from the system. Of coarse this is extreme because of the no moisture allowed in a low temp refrigeration system. A simple flush with nitrogen would do the trick on a brake system. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Interesting. I think I like the 'using atmospheric pressure with vacuum' to blow off the alcohol idea better. Not sure where I'd get a bottle of nitrogen and/or what the hell I would do with it after the brake blow-out thing? Fill my tires? Take it to a kids birthday party and let'em all inhale it so they talk-funny? No wait... that's helium.
Terry
#846 |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Rental or, if you know someone in the ac/ refrigeration trade. Probably let you borrow one. Wish I was closer, I could lone you mine. It is similar to oxygen or propane, tank with regulator. Oxygen regulator may work the same tank. Check with your local bottled gas distributor.
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Driving there as we speak! 
Terry
#846 |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Dan here is some pics of the homemade vacuum extractor
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Thanks for all the vacuum/pressure bleeding advice, I may put DOT5 back in it soon. idk.
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | So I took 324 to the tire shop to have some new tires mounted, I pulled in Friday morning around 9:30, the guy who came out to help didn't say much, was kinda grumpy, and I thought great? I hope we don't run into any stud or lug issues, because this guy is already not real happy....He immediately grabbed a floor jack and placed it under the front leaf and jacked up the front, he then brought out a large air jack and started sliding it under the rear of the coach..I said, "Here is the jack point for the rear end"...and pointed and showed him the correct spot to place the jack. He said "Im jacking it up under the rear axle"...I said "No, it doesn't have a rear axle, use the spot I just showed you"...He gave me an evil eye look like I didn't know what the hell I was talking about look???lol. He then started to jack up the rear in the factory jack point, but then jack ran out of height...just before the inner duel came up...So he dropped it back down out of disgust, went back inside the tire repair area and drug out a larger air jack, it lifted it up just fine. While this was going on, I told him that I want to tighten all the lugs down with my own equipment that is carried in the rig, in other words, by hand. He thought I was crazy. He said "Why??" I told him I may be doing so brake work soon and I need to get these wheels off at home. He then questioned me about "How soon you doing the brake work?"....I basically told him not to worry about it....Sooo back to jacking the rig up...He went to the other side and jacked up the front, easy. He then grabbed another air jack and started to jack up the driver side rear and soon found out that the jack didn't go high enough. Im standing here watching, and thinking, "Why does he need to get all four corners of the rig up in the air???", just do one side at a time??? So he came to terms, and said, "Well, I guess I'll have to do one side at a time"....lol. So going back to the passenger side, he removed the chrome lug nut covers and then proceeded not to find the correct size socket...He tried a couple different ones, and before he had time to try and use the incorrect socket on my lugs, I said "Hold on, I think I have a socket inside the rig?". I opened up the storage dept and BAM, there was the 1-1/2" three quarter drive socket!! (Thanks Darrell!) The tire guy was impressed, he said he could of went out to one of the service trucks and probably found a socket, but he thanked me for having one....He then removed all three wheels and started mounting the new tires. While he was bringing out a new tire/wheel at a time, he looked at the rear suspension and said "Oh, now I see what you were talking about? It doesn't have a rear axle, I thought you were crazy?".....I laughed and explained some more about the FMC to him. He started talking more friendly to me now, and I felt I didn't need to be short with him. He slid the rear inner tire up and on the hub and started the thimbles, I grabbed the lug wrench/bar and threaded them on and tightened them up. 324 had a nice heavy lug wrench with a cheater bar. I cranked them down to a few hundred pounds, then went to the front and did the same. After threading the lugs on by hand a couple times, I decided to grab the 3/4" air gun and snug them up first before I used the manual method. He came out and said "That's cheating"..with a laugh. I knew he was now opening up and being more talkative. The tire store I was at was a Michelin dealer, and the new tires that were being put on weren't Michelins, but he liked them, it only took 4 ounces of weight on the passenger front to balance, and 1 ounce on the driver steer. He was impressed. By the time it was all over, we had bs'd about different things and we shook hands. While I stood there with my wallet, waiting for him to print the bill, I thought to myself, "He's going to try and charge me more than what I was quoted over the phone a couple weeks earlier".....Then he said that'll be $$. It was less than what I was quoted! Happy customer here. The tires feel great.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Okay, what tires went on it?
I can hardly wait to have to pay for 22.5's something or other for mine when I do the brake/wheel swap.
Sure I'll be walkin' funny afterwards...
Terry
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Glad all that worked out Dan. You are welcome on the tools. Let me share a tire and alignment story about 324. 2009 Family was planning a Colorado run for my daughters high school graduation trip. Purchased two brand new Michelin's for the front. Took them to a reputable shop hear in Bowling Green Ky. Will not mention the name out of respect. Tires mounted and I figured since this was a large truck and Rv certified center, I would have them check the alignment and make it drive perfect. Lol . So we hit the road and each time I stop to get fuel I am doing my walk around while the tank is filling and the front tires seem to be wearing excessively. Well just trying not to worry about it, we finally arrive to our campsite on The Arkansas River between Cannon City and Aspen. I have maybe 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch of tread left after traveling 1200 miles. I was not happy  . Told my son to grab a tape measure and meet me in front of 324. I crawled underneath and we measured side to side, front and rear on the front inner wheel lip. Towed in by almost 1 inch. My wife spent about two days trying to calm me down. Long story short. I made a drawing of the measurements we found and my son and I got the pipe wrench out and did a Kentucky redneck good ole boy alignment right there in the campground. Spent two weeks enjoying Colorado and drove her back to Kentucky, with almost zero tire wear. I sure thought on the way out there I was fighting the wheel more than normal, just thought it was the wind or different vehicle I was towing. Any who, when I got back home I went back to the Tire shop and presented the owner with pictures and my drawing of the wheel alignment measurements. He proceeded to tell me that the guy who set it up was the best in the area on rvs and road tractors. He asked me what I wanted him to do. I said , I want two brand new Michelin tires. He agreed, but said we will not be doing another alignment, because it seems to be dead on. Lol Pipe wrench and tape measure verses all there fancy alignment tools. Lol. I drove it six more years on the same tires. The two new ones they went with Joe L, when he bought 324 from me in 2015.
Just thought all you all, would enjoy that story.
Have a great day
Darrell D |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | The steers that were on it were worn on the outsides and old. The new ones never came with the rig. I bet the steers I just took off were from your alignment story! |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. |  wow, that is crazy. Date code would be the incriminating evidence.
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | The ones on the rear were 2003. I just assumed that the steers were also, but they must of been 2009. |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Copy that Yes the rear were replaced before our 2004, 8000 miles in 14 days. Kentucky, Missouri, Mitchell South Dakota, Rapid City WY, Yellowstone, Bryce Canyon, Las Vegas, Grand Canyon, Missouri, Home, Kentucky.
Man you are brushing some dust off the memory banks. Lol
Thank you
Have a great day |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | 8000 miles in 14 days...did you just take pictures from the windows!!?? |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Well im sure you remember Movie, National Lampoons Vacation, with Chevy Chase Lol It was an adventure. Lots of good memories. That is what the coaches are all about. Family Memories
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Well, 324 did good on our first outing, I got 6.3 mpg heading north, I cruised around 63/64 mph on Interstate 5...I haven't filled the tank yet after getting home to see what I got driving south...My GPS did log a high speed of 69! Whoops...That was at the base of a big hill.... The 440 used a 1/4 of a quart of oil, some of that went by the fuel pump gasket, a valve cover, and ?...lol. I just fixed the fuel pump gasket last night and replaced a rubber fuel line. I'm contemplating on changing the drivers side exhaust manifold (cracked at exhaust pipe collector) before my trip this weekend to the coast, but I think it'll wait. All the appliances worked like they should, all and all, I'm very happy. I had Dave Wolfe crank the steering wheel back and forth for me while we were in Oakridge, I found a couple tie rod ends with a little slop, and one lower bell crank bushing looks to be sloppy. 324 was very drivable, but I can imagine how much better it will be after I replace a few front end pieces...The 440 ran great, with the tail pipe exiting out the rear, you can hardly hear it running at a stop light. I was sitting at a rest stop for a few minutes taking a break, I left the engine idling to help with heat soak, I had a guy walk up and ask what year it was, he smiled and said "It sounds like a hot rod!"....324 has a great sounding old muffler on it, I'm going to leave it on there if I can keep it from breaking up do to age....I pulled the #6 spark plug out and took a look at it. A little oily, I cleaned it off and reinstalled. I have plans on removing the rear ladder, and I'm getting a front lower air dam from another owner. I plan on removing the tv antenna also, she's going to be sleek.....
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
Edited by dkarnath 2019-10-07 2:34 PM
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Sounds like somebody's '...falling in Love'.
You're done-for Buddy!
Suits me just fine as I was worried you was headed astray from the gang.
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Just enough on the project list to keep you out of the bars...you can add brake drum swap to the list now too.. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I already know that one drum is out of spec and got hot....And I'm sure there's another one that can't be turned....
Come on Terry! Yeah she's a big one, but she looks soooo good....nice and warm too on those chilly nights.... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I added some more to the photo album, work was a bit slow this week, so I got to play with 324 some more. Im taking it on a trip tomorrow. I believe I found the transmission leak, I'll know more about it soon, but it seems to be coming out of a plug or something just below the tail shaft housing were it mounts to the main case. I may be the tail shaft gasket though...idk.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | That is a pin that holds the rear band apply lever and anchor. It has an o ring. When it leaks it is when parked and the torque converter drains down raising the fluid level in the transmission. Running it is above the fluid level.
Not fun to reseal in the vehicle.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Thanks for the good news Bill!!! |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Bring er on down to Colorado! It can be done in frame but it has to come plenty apart to seal that pin. I’ve seen enough silicone blobbed on that pin with atf still leaking past the o ring. Pull the extension housing, pan and valve body. Then you can drive the pin out far enough to replace the o ring and RTV the pin on the way back in. You only move the pin out enough to get the old o ring off.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | sounds like a great opportunity to get a shift kit installed and replace the shifter shaft seal (those damn things always start leaking at the worst times..)
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Hell, while you're at it, why not get Billy to throw in one of them great overdrives he & Lou are building these days?
Tranzilla!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | You need to change the settings on your album so that we can comment...it's important that I be able to heckle you on the gianormous fart can muffler you have!
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I changed the settings |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I took 324 out for a night of camping this weekend, the last couple times I've driven it, I've noticed the idle being a little high when warm at stoplights etc...It seemed to idle perfectly when cold? Then it started idling higher at all times this weekend, so time to take a look. I found the throttle cable on the carburetor end just kinda floating on the stud? The cruise control arm was laying down beside the carburetor next to the misc linkages...And no return spring? Looking a little closer I see the return spring hanging on the air conditioning compressor tab, and the carb end is broke off. The spring was used as the cotter pin to hold the cable and cruise control linkage to the carburetor. I also noticed the cable end didn't have an inner bushing so their is a ton of slop back and forth. Not really sure if you would even know this while driving, but I want to make it tight, so I found a piece of aluminum to use as a bushing for now. I'll look for a brass bushing at the hardware store when I go...I also lubed the cable and found the cruise control vacuum canister bolts were really loose. I put a vacuum gauge on the 440 finally, it has 14" of vacuum, I played with the timing a little, ended up in the same position that I already had it in, I adjusted the vacuum advance diaphragm again and also the idle screws. The metering rods where way out of adjustment on the Thermoquad and the choke still might need fine tuning on the air horn butterfly, it's too rich. I'm doing all this work for Len and Stephen, so when they need to work on their carburetor and throttle links they can refer to these pictures, or if Larry needs to adjust his carburetor.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
Edited by dkarnath 2019-10-28 10:46 AM
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | absolutely gold-plated, life-saving info for me...I really can't say just how valuable this is...no...really... I just can't.. |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Great find Dan
The cruise on #324 used to work. Replaced the unit in the rear.
Choke worked very well for the 12 years I rolled it.
Carb was rebuilt by me and timing set to factory specs.
324 would always start no matter how cold or hot.
Cold starts winter: Pump the pedal three times to the floor, turn the key, fire right up. She would gradually idle faster as she warmed. Tap the pedal and it would idle down and hit on all 8, as my dad used to say. Lol.
Cold start in the summer: Pump pedal to the floor one time.
Hot start: Turn the key. If she did not fire right up, put the pedal to the floor and hold and clear her throttle of excess fuel.
Always idled great and started up, hot or cold. Every now and then , she would be a little rich on start after stopping for fuel or short shut downs.
Maybe some tried to adjust out the pug fouling, miss, with the carb screws ??? :0.
Hope this helps.
Always liked to listen to her run when, started up on a really cold day. Had a nice lope You know, that old muscle car sound from the Mopar 440
You all have a great day and may God bless your travels and adventures in your FMC'S
I sure miss those times |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Good set of pictures with explanations. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Maybe something here will fit - https://www.mcmaster.com/flanged-bushings
This Video is long and covers "other" Ma Mopar engines/cars . . . but applies to our Favorite FMC 440/727.
I don't think that the "Tool" is required, but you do need to apply light forward pressure and let the throttle pin push it rearward.
I have yet to find a clear and large photo or drawing that shows just what parts stack on the throttle pin from the inside(carb) out to the tranny return spring GROOVE where the tranny spring hooks on the throttle pin.
The FMC has a different manufac throttle cable but it needs to go the same place in the "stack" that is used on the Mopar Cars/Trucks.
Nor is it clear to me just where the "Factory" Cruise Control attaches in the Carb Throttle "Pin" stack.
Guess many of you will be looking for the "jeebus clips" (little wire clips on the linkage) when you try to remove those with needle nose pliers that seem to jump out of the pliers, and most say, "Jeebus! Where did that go ?".
Bush ON !Lou #120 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | McMaster Carr is a godsend...I can't count how many times they've had that "unfindable" item.. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Jeebus hairpin clip TOOL - https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/carburetor-pin-tool
Clip ON !
Lou @120 |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | The tool Lou posted should be in any toolbox that will be working with carburetors and lots more. Mine is over thirty years old. Well worth having.
Bill |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | The original throttle cable end is much larger than the carburetor pin. Bushing is nice but not needed. The spring is not to be installed as the pin in the linkage. It bends it until it breaks. Obviously. Was the kickdown (passing gear) working. That’s important to transmission life.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yeah the kick down works. The down rod going to the arm hits the insulation on the firewall at full throttle, I'm not sure if I should do anything about that, but it looks to be moving the arm way forward.
I could of used that tool many times, I have a "special" pair of small needle nose pliers I use for the Jeebus motherdkfj;lr!!! clips... |
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Veteran
Location: Olympia, Washington | Locking hemostats or 'roach clip' always worked for me. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I have a locking set of hemostats in the box too George....no roach clip anymore....I switched that one out for a can coozey.... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Been doing some things to 324, replaced the driver side valve cover gasket and exhaust manifold gasket, of course lost all anti freeze out one of the exhaust studs...after start up, still had a smoky leak at that valve cover/exhaust manifold? Then I seen the glistening little river of oil running down and out of the PCV valve grommet..ugh. Ordered new and replaced, all good. My exhaust now is tight for the time being, I have the two new low style manifolds to go on it in the future. This weekend I am going to do a compression test on the 440, if I find any low compression, I am probably going to buy a complete "supposedly" great running 440/727 that is on Craigslist here locally, it's out of a 1973 Travco. I can probably get the hole package, fan to parking brake drum for 500 bucks. I'll just do an engine/tranny swap in the future, will need to be done before the Nebraska rally....Remember, I'm on a budget here....I also removed the rear ladder, plugged the holes with some white rivets. I have a front air dam being picked up out of state for me in the near future, I'm stoked on that. I haven't been taking any pictures lately, but I have this one.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | "Remember, I'm on a budget here"
your coach doesn't care...it "wants to eat"..
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | "of course lost all anti freeze out one of the exhaust studs . . ."
Guess you missed - http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=917&post...
and
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
but this might be appropriate after Len's comment, -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-LET-R-EAT-DRAG-RACE-DECALS-HOT-ROD-RATROD...
Nothing has changed about Drag Racing or the Care and Feeding of a FMC Antique Road Show . . . It still takes ever damn penny you've got to have fun !
Zoom ON to MINDEN '20 !
Lou #120
Edited by hemi354az 2019-11-21 3:14 PM
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I've been wanting to do a compression test on the 440 for a while, I used to borrow Grandpa's tester, but that isn't an option now, so I started shopping compression gauge's, the 40-50 dollerish one's on Amazon had mixed reviews, so I didn't pull the trigger, then I came across the reviews of a Harbor Freight one, and surprisingly they were very positive, so with a 20% off coupon, I bought one for 22 dollars or something...I used the tester on the 440, then I checked one cylinder of my 10k mile 351M engine in my 79' Ford to compare gauge readings. The highest number I got out of the 440 was 120*, I also got 120 on the Ford, so Im not sure if the gauge is off by 20-25 or not, or if both these motors are just have lower compression? I haven't used a compression gauge in years, but I remember 145-150 as a healthy compression. So anyway, I posted a picture of my results in the album, number 6 has the spark plug that gets real dirty pretty fast, I added some oil to the cylinder and had zero changes on the gauge.... and number 4 has the lowest compression, after adding some oil to #4 it gained 5lbs. All the rest I just tested as it sat. The engine used a quart of oil in 600 miles, some of this was due to oil leaks that I have now fixed.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I also have a mild vibration from stop till second gear I've been needing to look into, while I was underneath a couple months ago, I found a couple bell housing bolts a little loose, so I thought maybe I should check the torque convertor bolts also, two of the four where 1/4-1/2 turn loose. Bill S.then reminded me about the motor mounts, and in the beginning when I first got 324, I remember seeing a possible slight crack between the rubber and the steel of the passenger side mount but kind of forgot about it, I looked yesterday and didn't see any crack, it's raining and possibly snowing this week, so I wont be putting a jack under the motor to check the motor mounts quite yet....I also will be checking the drive shaft alignment and those components. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I get a little chassis vibe when accelerating from a dead stop.. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Ok...I'll be the one.... The first post on this website for 2020. I haven't turned a wrench on 324 in over a month, but hey, she fired up an ran great the other day.....I also used it to hide Christmas gifts this season from the kiddo? So 324 is still seeing some love!! I've been dating a "new" woman who really wants to go camping, so that's going to promote some usage soon I think, maybe a coast trip. Oh, and I got new amber LED marker lights for the roof (still need red for the rear), some nice wheel covers for when in storage, a fuel shut off valve for the generator, and a chrome lug nut cover remover tool for Christmas from my Dad. The parts are stacking up and so is the list of to do's on 324. I'm looking forward to 2020 and logging some miles on 324. |
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Happy New Year, Dan. Looking forward to your journey with #324 in 2020. Take care, my friend
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Yeah, hope you get that baby out lots' in 2020 Dan, and the coach, too!
Kind of weird how you sold your other coach then just sort of 'morphed' into this one.
Still ain't figured it out.
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Amen Terry...My "old" coach is getting some good love now, it's getting taken to the next level and going to see some good road time, I started over in sorts, which is what I need I guess...If I had property, I'd be like Bill and have more than a few sitting around, I'd like to start the FMC Ranch someday just as an oddity. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Sometimes a fresh start is just what you need.
Never know what's just around the next corner till you go there...
"FMC Ranch"... hummmmm, you mean like one of them brothel cat-house things in a hotel cept' you'd have a bunch of FMC's scattered around to use as rooms for fornicating?
"Yeah, I'd to see Willameena in #858 please."
Maybe not. You don't strike me as the pimp-type.
Sure would be an "oddity" though :-o
Keep the good-ideas flowing Dan-O!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I fired up 324 yesterday and turned it around in the driveway....Stephan dropped off a couple cool parts I've been waiting for on his way to CA...I'm going to focus on working on the front end I think, I have a front lower air dam put on that came off the Mario Andretti coach! I'm not sure what color to paint it, it's in primer now. The front bumper I'll either have powder coated or I'll paint it. I have new upper amber LED clearance lights, one maybe two brake drums to replace, and replace a couple tie rod ends. After "hopefully" all this work gets done, I'm going to replace the rubber fuel lines at the fuel tank though firewall, and run a AN style fuel line from the pump to carb, I'd feel pretty safe with that set up. If anyone (Lou) has the thread size on the pressure side of the pump and the inlet at the Thermoquad Id be happy... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I wanted to have a look at the stub axle bearings...(they were clearly greased beautifully on their last servicing I found, and in excellent shape), but I'm not sure when that was? and the grease seal looked aged on it's exterior, so I dug in. I could also feel back/forth movement when moving the yoke by hand that I didn't like. My suspicion was correct, the drive flange end of the axle is tired, so I'm searching for a replacement now. I'm not sure if you can see in the pictures, but along with the obvious wear, the hard surfacing on the splines was also damaged and starting to pit. This also explains my "clunk" sometimes when going from forward to reverse. I also posted a picture of a great pair of extended length "internal" snap ring pliers that I finally purchased just for doing this job. They worked great.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
Edited by dkarnath 2020-07-20 11:37 AM
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Dan,
You can send those to Dutchman (as samples) and have replacements made. Email them ahead of time and send them pictures...that's the kind of stuff they do frequently. The drive flange likely will have matching wear...they can do those too.
Edited by LCAC_Man 2020-07-21 6:59 PM
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Len, that is good information for when the supply from parts coaches disappears. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | They are just west of Boise, so not to far away for you guys.. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I'm not sure I want to find out the cost on that route Len, but good to know....I think people will be pulling old FMC's out from behind the barn for a while yet...but you never know.... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I think you would be surprised...this stuff isn't that expensive...those are short shafts so not much material involved. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | This is good stuff.
Cept I'm replaying the 'Theme from Shaft' song in my head over and over... "...long shaft" no "short shaft" do-dee-do-dee-do'... "you say this cat Shaft is a bad mother? Shut your mouth..."
I digress. Carry on.
Terry
#846 |
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Regular
| So a cautionary note on DOT-5 that I am struggling with. I replaced almost my entire brake system (everything except springs, pads, drums and hard lines) then flushed with Alchohol to be safe and then installed the DOT-5. Still trying to find an air bubble so I pressure bled they system again and all of my purple / blue DOT5 is now colored like normal brake fluid. I am not sure where the reaction is happening but something in my system is causing the DOT-5 to discolor. I have not called the manufacturer to get their thoughts, but what I have heard from my classic car friends is that this happens, and that it is best to test what kind of brake fluid you have with a sample and some water. If it separates you have 5 and if it mixes together you have 3. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Did you flush/bleed out the hydrovacs with the alcohol? |
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Regular
| I did flush the system with Alchohol after I replaced the MC, Brake Boosters (both) the Brake Cylinders and all the rubber hoses. And I ran more than 1.5 gallons of DOT-5 through because of this discoloration (I would bleed the system, and then do an idiot check after a couple of days and the fluid would be discolored). Thing is I tested the DOT-5 when it discolored and it had nothing in it, it just had lost the color. I put water in as a test on the discolored, and it separated, and I even put in DOT3 and no effect. Very very bizarre. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I've never used DOT-5 in anything, so I have zero experience with it. I just did a disk brake conversion on my '53 Willys jeep, I though about using DOT-5, but I chickened out and used ol 3. |
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Regular
| Dan, its a weird thing. Some people are rabid about using it, and some people are completely against it. I think the upside is that it doesn't attract water and for vehicles that sit, it helps (but doesn't not completely prevent) internal rust. I have also heard people complain that it doesn't work well in their system (seems to be anti lock issue but to me that makes no sense). It is crazy expensive, and I have left about $30 worth of oil on the ground due to my mistakes on putting the brakes back together. I scored on a profession pressure pot which really makes brake bleeding super easy, and flushing is now a lot less of an issue as I just put in the alcohol in the pot. Anyway, a53 willy's Very cool. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I use DOT-3 in everything...it's dirt cheap and you can buy it at any truck stop.
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | This is what I've been working on in my free time for the last 4 months, since Covid started basically. Hence the slow #324 updates....
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
But with the Oakridge rally dead line creeping up, I've got to get going on a few projects on 324, and it is 100 degrees here now too, so.....lol |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Got back to work on 324...I received another axle, and I have a drive flange on the way, it's as bad as the old axle. I'll have spares to carry with me...ugh. A little word of advise, when you reinstall, and you get to the 2nd bearing (the outer bearing), be sure to slide in the race FIRST. I mistakenly slid the bearing in, then tapped the race in towards the bearing (WRONG), installed the 25 dollar grease seal (OUCH), yoke then nut, tightened... but WAIT??? The axle has a ton of up/down slop??? The yoke doesn't seem to be putting any preload on the bearings?? Then it hit me....like a dummy I realized what I did. I put the bearing in backwards....It took me an hour to get that race slid back out of the housing without damaging the bearing using a pick, and some different screw drivers etc...all freshly greased of course. Luckily my small puller didn't ruin the new oil seal, I was able to reuse. I know why I made this mistake, I'm rebuilding a Dana D18 transfer case in my jeep, the output shaft bearing is installed bearing first, then race, then you set the pre load with shims. I also just got done replacing the axle bearings in my rear Dana 44 in the Jeep, same deal, bearing then race. So anyway....
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | that flange is clapped out..great find on the axle shafts!
Edited by LCAC_Man 2020-08-03 3:19 PM
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | Hello and good day Dan
Those axle splines if my memory serves me well, had a lot of wear when I reworked all of that back in 02-03. I had the same concerns that you have. I called Leslie up in Illinois, he said it was normal, just to be careful to make sure the coach is completely stopped before changing directions, forward to reverse and back. Not sure if that helps any. Also I will get those build sheets and receipts to you when I get a moment to box them up and send them out. I think bearings and races where replaced on the passenger side and the driver side, was ok and I reused the bearings. All seals and brake components were replaced at that time as well. Good to hear 324 is alive and improving daily
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | That newly delivered axle definitely is in much better shape. Something just came back to my mind about what causes that wear. You may already know this. I was told to use the emergency break when doing multiple front to back shifts, when parking or monuevering into a site. Use the emergency brake to stop the driveline and hold it when shifting from forward to reverse and back. Keeps that slop to a minimum. Hope that made some sense.
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | LCAC_Man - 2020-08-03 1:11 PM that flange is clapped out..great find on the axle shafts!
That why we try to preserve parts from dead coaches. That axel came from coach #150 which burned about 15 years ago. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | You could probably have the flanges repaired, boring them out and pressing in(then welding) a newly broached center would be pretty doable. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | That’s a good reason to hold onto anything coming off these coaches. If nothing else it’s 90% of a pattern.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I see what your saying Darrel about minimizing running gear slop with the parking brake... I just got rid of a ton of running gear slop with this axle/flange fix. This was a good find. Thanks for your input, very appreciated. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I got my "new" drive flange! Thanks Mike (AKA Mario Coach). You can hardly tell, or 'feel' I should say, when you switch between drive and reverse. Very smooth now like it should be.... HUGE difference. I'm happy.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | After loading #324 with valuables (well things I value? lol) a couple weeks ago for a possible fire evacuation, luckily I didn't have to evac. I unloaded it this weekend and resumed getting it ready for the upcoming rally in Oakridge. I finally put my new LED cab marker lights on. I'm pretty sure replacing cab lights is the worst job on the planet. I don't like it. Never have, never will. Anyway....I have never even driven an FMC in the dark of night?? lol...But at least they look cool.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | that is a suck job...way to tough it out!
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | You found some 'retro' looking ones - cool!
Mine are LED, too, but look quite different than original.
Glad ya'all got through the fires; was worried about all you guys living on the West Coast.
Times are a changin'!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I put a couple more touches on 324 last night...I can't wait to get her out on the road next week to Oakridge. This weekend will be wash the roof off and a quick "yearly" clean of the motor...
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Good job!
Question: were your hinges rusty-as-hell before you painted them?
Mine look like sh-h-h-h-e-e-e-e-e-it and I was thinkin' of going this route.
Pain in the ass to take all the doors off just to get hinges re-chromed eh.
Stay healthy my Friend.
Terry
#846 |
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Regular
| Did you do any prep on the metal outside of cleaning? I have been thinking about this as a stop gap before we repaint the entire home. At that point as I would be tearing out all the windows to reseal, and taking the doors off, the bumpers and hinges would go out for recroming. Assuming I can get it done in this state or Oregon. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I sanded the old paint with 150 then 220 grit paper. Might be a bad habit of mine, but I have always sprayed whatever it is I'm going to paint with starting fluid and then wipe off with a cloth to get the surface clean, I never get fish eyes. The original chrome plating is still there under the paint I think... The hinges were already painted black due to the chrome getting rusty years ago...I just swiped some 220 paper across them and painted.
I had a set of valve covers chromed here locally in Medford about 15 years ago, they have since closed up. Portland should still have a plating place. If it didn't get looted. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Hey, wait a minute, "...Portland... looted." isn't that 'political'?
Better watch the language there buddy-boy or the powers-that-be may pounce.
Ha-ha... and I'm totally sober!
Cheers,
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Another fine fix....
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | The last trip I made in 324 was to Oakridge, OR, and I noticed mice poops appearing, and when I went to light the furnace in Oakridge, I seen mouse nest material in and around the furnace that went inside the duct work that runs to rear of the coach...so needless to say, I just used my electric heater instead of the furnace. So I borrowed a mouse trap from Stephen to see If I could catch anything while camping...nothing. After I got home, and still no snap of the traps, I came to the conclusion that my mouse must of been visiting and left last winter or something. I wanted to clean the duct work out, because the furnace is nice on the cold mornings camping. So I started digging in, and ultimately came to the conclusion that I am going to slide the furnace out, and either replace the duct work, or clean as good as I can while the furnace is out. With the furnace out, you will have a straight shot at the duct work so you can get a vacuum in there. I also pulled the tail lights loose and spray foamed (the best I could) up into the body cavity that runs up on both sides of the rear window. This cavity is known to allow exhaust fumes to enter inside the coach through the cabinets. I've had a terrible time managing the fumes (getting it out of the rig) while traveling. The best I've done, is turn the Fantastic Fan inside the bathroom on and leaving the bathroom door open, and having the front side windows open 5-6". It seems to suck the fumes out the bathroom vent ok, but not perfect. So hopefully the work I did will help. I want to get a Fantastic Fan for the front roof vent, just haven't done it yet because I also want to add a ceiling light. I need to run power etc.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p... |
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Veteran
Location: Soquel, CA. | Hi Dan. All I can say is that when I have had mice, the traps worked. So, it is very possible they are temporarily gone. Mine did like to use the little mouse highway that exists from the engine compartment that you are trying to fill. I used foam from below, up high in the generator compartment (when generator was out), and same on engine side. It was messy, but it appears to have worked. Fixed the fume issue too. I think there may be a way to get to those cavities from the back corner of the upper cabinets, if you remove the curved cardboard finish in the back (at least that is how mine works). I am in the process of replacing my furnace. It comes out pretty easy. I would replace those ducts. No point in always wondering how clean they really are. With the furnace out, you might find a few other place to spray foam. Lastly, I am big fan (so to speak) of replacing the vents with fantastic fans. It is particularly nice to have two of them so you can set them up with one bringing air in and the other pushing air out. I think air quality in our RVs is an often overlooked issue. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Hi Greg
I removed the furnace on 850 and bench tested it before trying to use it, It came out easy with the exception of having to trim the exterior aluminum paneling some. Hopefully 324's just slides out without having to modify anything.....
Where the ducting runs under the toilet on 324, it's seems to be stuffed tightly with fiberglass insulation, not sure the ducting will come out without removing the toilet and floor, if that's the case, the duct replacing will wait a bit...
I will look at the rear cabinets interior trim and see if any access is obtainable also for foaming.
Does anyone have the sheet metal 90 degree piece to hook the duct up to the vent under the kitchen sink for sale? I don't really want to make one unless last resort, or maybe it's an item I can buy, I haven't invested any time into looking yet...Here's a pic though.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Dan, I had fume issues in my coach when I first got it. I foamed the junction of the top of the engine compartment from the forward edge of the compartment all the way around to the forward edge of the other side. Did a big U shaped path of continuous foam bead. That totally sealed off all fumes and have not had a issue since. That stopped the fumes at the source. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Dan, I’m pretty sure I’ve seen one of the duct to vent adapters in the “golden container” of FMC parts. You just need the one adapter? I noticed a handful of the adapters for duct to heater box. When I have it in hand I’ll let you know.
Bill |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | I’m thinking the piece I have is fiberglass not sheet metal.
Bill |
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Veteran
Location: Olympia, Washington | Remember as you are breathing fumes going down the road how nice it would be if there were fresh air coming in to thin out the fumes. I can not think of any other vehicle that does not have fresh air. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yes I need the "duct to floor vent adapter" end Bill. If you see one let me know. Thanks!
Yeah George, Im waiting to see your "FMC fresh air system". I would love to be able to control incoming fresh air in an FMC. They seriously suffer from poor circulation. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
So now that springs here, I'm working on 324 again. Getting ready for a coast trip in a couple weeks. I finally removed the furnace and vacuumed the duct work out. My plan of attack was to remove the furnace on the exterior of the coach, but due to the duct work vents on the side of the furnace, that wasn't going to happen, so I slid it out in the kitchen, and that worked great. I then removed the sheet metal ducting under the bathroom sink and cleaned up the seams to make my un-efficient furnace more efficient (maybe, but I doubt it).... Changed the engine oil, fuel filter also. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Job well done Dan'O! Missed your calling as a 'Tin-basher'!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I just took #324 out for a short camping trip this last weekend, the last it moved out of the driveway was October 2020. This is my first trip since foaming the cavity up above the taillights....I had ZERO exhaust/oil/grease smell inside the coach!!! HUGE improvement that ALL FMC's should have done. If the new owner of #850 reads this, do this, I had the same issue when I owned it.
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=200&p...
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Good stuff Dan-O!
I'm on this, too, even though I've not had a stink issue. Of course my wife would say otherwise!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I bet someone already sealed yours off, not your butt though....no helping you there Terry! |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | 'P-f-f-f-f-f-t!'
Terry
#846 |
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#324