i am neck deep into its restoration. (took a while to finish some other projects to get it indoors) Its listed in the registry as in excellent condition. Dear god , if this is the benchmark for excellence i am upping my Xanax dosage
none the less i have the braking system nearly complete (the discontinuation of the spring kit was a gut punch)
Thank you to the knowledgeable gentleman Lou for his info last year
I have refurbished the existing Generator, and are working thru the 440 issues ( I'm a mopar guy so that is the extent of my comfort zone with this coach) Deciding on a replacement for the 1990s holly throttle body kit that was installed and i will seek out advice for the motors a/c system
What a need
live part numbers for the steering linkage components and front suspension,wheel bearings,shocks i have 9 to 3 play was hoping for one smoking gun but not the case i haven't see any info on the gearbox adjustment , assuming there is one,
Waiting to get the full drive train and and suspension complete before i dive into the coach amenities/appliances
The kitchen hood /oven was removed a microwave was installed in its place has anyone come up with a modern work around other than a simple replacement fan only
Gas furnace and both 120 a/c units are shot suggestions for good replacement units
second water tank was removed i found a decent replacement
Replacement sensors for the waste tanks?
When i look at the roof it cracks
i will be installing 4g satellite wifi and tv so will deal with the roof then
searched previous threads and the yahoo group for the suspension part numbers
if they are out there just direct me to the link
my questions will evolve as i progress
thank you all in advance for your help
Steering gear is (at least on the later coaches) a pretty standard Saginaw 800 series. It does have an adjustment(to tighten the box up) and you can find that on many youtube videos. As you suggested, it's probably not just one thing, lots of steering issues get blamed on the steering gear when it's usually only a small contributor.
Message #2883, 8/19/15, for Ball Joints.
Message #3394, 3/23/16, for Rod Ends. Mark location and COUNT number of threads engaged when removing, and install new with same number of threads. It will get you close to alignment.
Message #4006, 10/12/16, for Bushings in steering arms, and Message #4037, 10/23/16, and http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid...
Message #4446, 3/10/17, for wheel seals, and http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=112&p...
The Search Feature really WORKS !
For Bearings and Seals go to the FMC Parts book, get the "other" Part No for each item, and enter that Part No and single noun name in Google and you will get many sources and prices and alternate Part Numbers.
If there is something you CAN'T FIND via Google, please give us the Figure Number, and Item Number, in the FMC Parts BOOK.
Press On ! Lou #120
Hi Lou Have a question i finally came across a set of brake spring sets and to my surprise all 4 per wheel are the same On mine 2 were as shown the other two pass thru the brake shoe and grab the plate i attached a photo of the spring . assume i can just grab the shoe alone
The original Brake Shoe Return Springs were two of one and two of another. Some one somewhere decided that all four could be the same, and started selling them that way. I have never found one of the springs (by Part Number). Only ones I found were the "kits" with 8 springs all the same for P500 Ford with dual rear wheels and the 15K rear axle. That special combination is the vehicle that the FMC brakes (all four) were "pirated" from.
They probably made fewer of that particular chassis set-up than all the other variations of the P500 Parcel Delivery, which is why the those Brake Parts have been relatively sparse the last 10 years and have finally dried up.
Others have used the "four of the same spring" without issue.
Got Brake Spring "pliers" ? - https://www.google.com/search?q=brake+spring+pliers&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS...
If you found Brake Shoe Return Springs . . . do they have more ?
If so, please share link with other FMCers.
Thanks lou i kind of like the original setup additional hold down to the plate without limiting movement pretty ingenious. an old school brake and wheel shop that is doing my machine work let me rifle thru their vast storage area found two sets i was going to have to get them made lucked out
just uploaded a photo not sure why it wont open will reduce its size next time
Mucho MANNA !
Last year Greg(#708)M and a few of us bought some new manufacture ones.
Could these be the last 4 of that batch, or are these NOS (New Old Stock) ?
Are they BALANCED ? The new manufacture ones we got were not balanced.
. . . and still can't open you embedded pictures.
Please put your pictures in "Albums", Click on Albums Tab at TOP RIGHT of Page.
The more PICTURES the BETTER !
You can add 1 or more pics at anytime to your FMC #128 pictures, or start a new Album if you want about each "subject".
Thanks, Lou #120
Hi all. Searched and cannot find an answer. How tight to set the the nut to the brake shoe hold down plate? Obviously I’m in the range of the cotter pin function but wondering how much side to side play in the shoe there should be. Thanks
Sorry for the stupid questions. Here is another one. Taking a lot of photos as I go but did not take any of the rear hub seal. Assuming the outer ring of the seal sits flush with the hub Think I would have remembered if that seal drove all the way to the bearing race but I am unsure
No. 128. It’s going to do something this coming weekend that it hasn't done in a while. Drive and stop on it’s own without external assistance ( like the back of another vehicle). Will add photos to my gallery this weekend
They are made to have the bearings replaced. The bolt that holds them onto the bracket is an issue. Most bearing failures scar the bolt. This is a special bolt, not available from any parts house. A damaged bolt can cause new bearings to bind up. Also failure can do damage to the bracket as well. The area that meets with the bearing gets ground down if the rear bearing seizes. This can cause slight pulley misalignment. If your pulley is damaged I do have a couple bare pulleys.
Fan/Water pump belt tension idler pulley failure CAN BE CATASTROPHIC - belt(s) failure, fan damage, oil filter damage, other pulley damage, radiator damage, coolant hose damage, overheating damage . . .
When it fails . . . you are done . . . not far from where it failed.
The only way to eliminate catastrophic failure of the fan/water pump belt tension idler pulley is to eliminate . . . the pulley.
I wouldn't drive a 440 powered FMC to the local gas station just to fill it with gas if it still had the fan/water pump belt tension idler pulley . . . much less, on a trip ANYWHERE.
Sooner or later . . . IT IS GONNA' GET YOU !
NO WP IDLER, Lou #120
Alot of things on this beast that can lead to catastrophe
i think in new bearing will last a bit i put 200 k miles on my aircooled 75 westphalia without cooking it always install cylinder head temp and water temp gauges on all my vulnerable rides
will say this about 128 the previous owner kept every inch of paperwork since he bought it from that restoration place in Illinois in 1998 he did all the required maintenance , yet the thing that frightens me the most about this coach is that the brakes failed him on 5 different times while on the road spent over 6 k in repairs failed me when i bought it
we will see
wrapping up mechanical (saving the steering box for last) cant believe how expensive the ball joints were all the play in steering is all from the box before i rip the steering column off, is there a adjustment nut to it? schematic doesn't point one out if not i would like to have a rebuilt gearbox in hand
I disagree with the above post. I put many uneventful miles on my coach with the stock setup. It is just like everything else: a little maintenance goes a long way in ensuring happy traveling. I did have some issues, but none of it related to the idler.
Yes on the steering box adjustment, it is a standard Saginaw 800 box(at least it is on my coach), there are lots of videos on how to adjust it. While you have it disassembled you should at least put a new input shaft seal on it, they are known to fail on these boxes and make a mess (though don't typically impact operation).